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wdteipen wrote: No, I was seriously just towel-snapping. I was referring to the stem video you posted awhile back. Don't worry, my sense of humor is lost on most people.

10-4. I honestly forgot about that thing. (Seemed like a good idea at the time, but made it me cringe so much after watching it afterward---first & only take, WAY under-edited---that I tried to forget it. )

Also, I had to be so physically contorted to keep my hands in the camera frame while dodging the tripod, avoid shadows, etc. etc. that I looked clumsy and stiff while demonstrating stuff. Viewed that way, I guess no one actually saw me work. I like to think how I move my hands is more like one of those uber-fit 100 pound Russian figure skater girls, gliding effortlessly, creating beautiful shapes at a whim, while wearing... Ahem. Yes. Well, enough of that. (She was over eighteen, thoughtcrime officer! Honest!)

OK. Better quit while I'm ahead.

[clicks submit button]

A great deal of what you say I agree with, George. However, I also agree with Tyler.

You've illustrated that there are a number of things about the bite zone that affect comfort and you're absolutely right. I've owned beautiful pipes whose button width was unwieldy in the mouth, so I smoked them a few times and gave up.

Personally, I've found that button height, width, and depth effect my personal comfort the most. I do still greatly prefer a thinner bit to a thicker one and when a wonderful thin bit is combined with a perfect button I never want to take that pipe out of my mouth. While thickness as it relates to comfort is relative and will not be the same for everyone, a thin bit behind the button (<0.150") is a great gauge for a few things.

1. What skill level the carver is.

This is not necessarily a defining factor in how skilled the carver is, especially if you've already proved your mettle, but for new carvers it is definitely a way to show that you have the ability and desire to make excellent pipes. For established carvers, it's a great way to guarantee quality and comfort. Win win.

2. How comfortable a customer can expect the stem to be.

As stated above, comfort level depending upon thickness is relative. However, a majority will likely find a thinner bit more comfortable. There are situations when you want to cut a thicker bit, say on a very heavy pipe. In most situations, <0.150" or die.

I'll be honest, I find 2.8 to 3.0mm bits to be the most comfortable and cut bits for my personal pipes this thin. I aim for 3.5mm on pipes I sell for security reasons and find the comfort at that thickness (which is 0.150" for the metric illiterate) to be excellent. I've owned pipes with bits as thick and thicker than 0.175" and find them clunky. I've also tried those rubber bumpers and found them to be an atrocity against nature.

Like I said, comfort level is relative but a <0.150" bit behind the button is a great way to gauge the stuff I mentioned above.

Proportions my friends. Many of our fine hand made pipes sit on a shelf, so would it be sensibile make the thickness proportional to the size of the entire piece?

I do keep mine between .140 to .180 depending on the size of the pipe or if it is for a specific customer, I tailor it to his/her preference.

George, did you just say you think of your self as a Russian female figure skater? Well I think we need to talk to Kurt about changing your user name. Haha love it.
As I've said before I thought the video was great. I am sure anyone knows your skill level even with clumsy hands in the clip. I was quite thankful because when I see someone's hands move I can emulate that with mine. Of course I can't figure skate at all. I can skate a little


Sent from my banana phone.

So...perfect timing for this thread. Here is a pocket billiard I started today. The specs are below. I am almost finished shaping so ignore the waves in the stem taper and the bottom line of the bowl.

length: 4.09"
height: 1.67"
stem length: 1.85"
behind button: .163 (still have to sand it )




So, saying I end up around .155" behind the button how tall should the button be to compensate for the severe taper due to the stem length? As a reference the button is .343" tall right now.

In general, the steeper the taper, the taller the button has to be for the pipe to be clench-able.

Remember that material is easy to remove, but impossible to put back. Meaning I'd err on the high side by a bit. Any future customer can take an emery board to it (or send the stem solo in a bubble wrap envelope back to you for tuning), but if the pipe rotates side-to-side in his teeth he'll be an unhappy camper for good.

I can't give you a height number offhand, though. I've been doing stems so long that I just eyeball the ratios, anymore, and don't have a steep taper in my shop at the moment to measure. Sorry.

I usually cut my button height somewhere in the neighborhood of .25"

Thanks yeti


Sent from my banana phone.

Somebody should mention that whether the stem is acrylic or vulcanite is a major factor in thickness.

LL (3 stems) : 4.5

Ocelot55 (2) : 4.2

Sasquatch (1 stem), Castello (1), A-R Caminetto (1) : 4.0

All very comfortable ; one of the Ocelots freakishly so.

Stem width & comfort depends on how many teeth you have left and which ones.

Yak wrote:Somebody should mention that whether the stem is acrylic or vulcanite is a major factor in thickness.

That's one of those myths that never dies. It's just material. Either kind can be cut down to the same size using the same tools.

The reason the acrylic stems I made for you (seven years ago) are thicker than I'd make them today was because they were cut from Macchi blanks that had tall-ish pre-cut slots, and going thinner risked durability. Today I'd use rod stock, and a slot height that corresponded proportionately with whatever exterior stem thickness you wanted.

I don't cut stems thinner out of either material, but I will make a button slightly different because acrylic doesn't wear the way vulcanite does.

BTW I do have a pipe that I cut a SUPER thin stem on and it hasn't failed (acrylic) but it's really paper thin at the slot.

For anyone who hasn't seen, the thinnest bits, best cut buttons, and overall best quality I've seen in acrylic is on Ascorti pipes. They are about half of some other brands.

Sasquatch wrote:
For anyone who hasn't seen, the thinnest bits, best cut buttons, and overall best quality I've seen in acrylic is on Ascorti pipes. They are about half of some other brands.

Another brand that bears inspection: I no longer have any Buteras of my own to measure (and none in the shop at the moment) so can't speak to thickness, but I always thought Mike knew how to really handle acrylic. First rate stemwork on every pipe of his I ever handled, anyway. Very stylized without sacrificing comfort, and a great finish.

Either kind can be cut down to the same size using the same tools.

Obviously.

And stand up to (mis-)use as well / as long ?

Yak wrote:

Either kind can be cut down to the same size using the same tools.

Obviously.

And stand up to (mis-)use as well / as long ?

Yes. Unless you are talking rawhide bone territory when only a Twin-Bore will do the trick, but that's a design thing, not a material one, and they are only available in vulcanite.

LatakiaLover wrote:

Yak wrote:Somebody should mention that whether the stem is acrylic or vulcanite is a major factor in thickness.

That's one of those myths that never dies. It's just material. Either kind can be cut down to the same size using the same tools.

This is true.

Rad

RadDavis wrote:

LatakiaLover wrote:

Yak wrote:Somebody should mention that whether the stem is acrylic or vulcanite is a major factor in thickness.

That's one of those myths that never dies. It's just material. Either kind can be cut down to the same size using the same tools.

This is true.

Rad

Some black acrylic can be too transparent and if they are cut thin at the slot area, you can see light through it. I think this is why many Italian makers cut them a little thicker.

You can make a stem as thick or thin as you want but if the customer doesn't like they won't buy it and at the end of the day that is what is important. £££££££

If you are making a pipe to order you can find out what your customer wants, one of mine likes narrow thick bits as they fit the gap in his teeth while another like super thin dental fishtails.

For general stock I make a variety but they do tend to be on the thinner side.

David.