pipemakersforum.com

I could have sworn there was a thread here describing files (they looked like metal strings) that cut 360 degrees for shaping funnels in stems (bite zone), and where to get them. Can't find it now to save my life.


Thank you in advance.

You might be thinking about the Kemper k31 tool that Walt Cannoy (Camoy) used in the stem video He Made, Norm.

The one I use is the Kemper k31 Walt recommended them a while back. I get mine from creativecoldsnow.com but you can buy them at most art supply stores

Thank You !

One size for all diameters ?

Yeah, the k31 is just under (or right at) 1/16". They make one a bit bigger, the k32, but I find it is just a touch too big and have trouble getting it started in the 1/16" hole.

Thank You !

Yak, are you making a pipe???

Vermont Freehand sells them too but I'm not sure if he has it listed on his site. For a price quote, etc. just PM him here. He prefers that anyway.

scotties22 wrote:Yeah, the k31 is just under (or right at) 1/16". They make one a bit bigger, the k32, but I find it is just a touch too big and have trouble getting it started in the 1/16" hole.

A 1/16 hole is just a little bigger than a starter slot made with the 199 high speed cutter dremel tool which irritates me. Do any of you guys drill with a smaller bit like a 1mm instead of a 1/16"? Also, Dremel sells the 1mm in a kit which I have but I haven't been able to find the smaller bits elsewhere. Anyone know where to get them? Please don't say McMaster-Carr since I've searched there several times.

BobR wrote:

scotties22 wrote:Yeah, the k31 is just under (or right at) 1/16". They make one a bit bigger, the k32, but I find it is just a touch too big and have trouble getting it started in the 1/16" hole.

A 1/16 hole is just a little bigger than a starter slot made with the 199 high speed cutter dremel tool which irritates me. Do any of you guys drill with a smaller bit like a 1mm instead of a 1/16"? Also, Dremel sells the 1mm in a kit which I have but I haven't been able to find the smaller bits elsewhere. Anyone know where to get them? Please don't say McMaster-Carr since I've searched there several times.

Wire gage drill bits, readily available at Ace or similar...I believe I use #54. 0.055" compared to 1/16" which is 0.0625

Another option is to buy just the blades...

http://www.ottofrei.com/Mono-Tooth-Wax-Sawblade.html

...and put them in your own handles.

The easiest way to do that is drill a 1.5" deep on-axis hole in a half-inch-diameter length of Delrin that's the same diameter as the central part of the blade (the "un-toothed" part), and simply screw the blade in. The spiral teeth tap as they go, and the attachment is bullet proof.

Trim the blade to the desired length, wrap a few turns of coach's tape or stage tape on the Delrin for grip, and you're in bid-ness.

PS --- Orient the blade so it cuts when pulling, not pushing

Orient the blade so it cuts when pulling, not pushing

Ancient Chinese Secret !

notow1 wrote: Walt Cannoy (Camoy)

Oh, you're gonna git it!

Thanks George. I guess I need to spend a lot more time browsing their site. Let's see ... my marriage or Otto Frei? Any suggestions?

Tyler, FYI Otto Frei has a wide assortment of the small drill bits that match up with some nice little saws. My preference is a saw blade.

What do you think of the #8 blade size in the link below? They recommend the #55 drill bit as a starter for it.

http://www.ottofrei.com/Otto-Frei-Sawbl ... ieces.html

http://www.ottofrei.com/High-Speed-Stee ... nches.html

What do you think of the #8 blade size in the link below? They recommend the #55 drill bit as a starter for it.

I may be wrong but I don't think you'll be very happy trying to use jeweler's saw blades to open up the slot. They are designed to be used under tension in what resembles a fancy coping saw frame. Out of this frame they are pretty flimsy.
My favorite weapon of choice is a Lennox 320JC jig saw blade. These are super-sharp and cut in both push and pull. I grind the back side starting about mid-point and tapering toward the tip to almost a sharp point. These blades are about .043 thick. I just use a piece of wooden dowel to make a handle and epoxy the blade in place. To get it all started I drill a center hole in the rod (with the lathe) with a #56 bit (.0465). I then use the same size bit in my Foredom and drill a second hole at a shallow angle to the center hole then a third hole 180 degrees from the second. These two additional holes go deep enough to intersect the center hole. What this does is establish the outer boundaries of the "funnel" or a Y shape if you will. It's a bit tricky at first but I got the hang of it pretty quickly. I much prefer this method to the little Dremel saw. Scribing a center line across the end of the rod will help line up the three holes prior to drilling.
Again with the #56 bit in the Foredom I insert the bit into one of the angled holes and apply pressure towards the center hole and slowly pull the bit out. The flutes of the bit really aren't intended to cut but with care they will slowly remove the "web" between the holes. Use caution as the bit will want to wander off. Don't use a lot of sideways pressure or the bit will snap. As soon as I have enough of the web removed I start using the modified jig saw blade. It is sharp and will quickly open up the funnel. Then it is a matter of using small flat and round files and abrasive cord to tidy it all up. If you feel bold you can use an end mill of the appropriate size in lieu of the drill bit to remove the web but you'd better be on your toes as they are designed to side cut and it's easy to get carried away.
This is one of many funnel-forming methods that have been posted here on the Forum. You just need to experiment and find one that works well for you.
Chas.

Red ---

Those skip tooth round blades are sharp as hell, and their flexiness lets you take long strokes as opposed to little choppy ones. Cutting a slot with one doesn't take long, and round-sided (cross section) parabolic slots (top view) are easy to make.

The absolute fastest & slickest methodI know of is a carving drill in a high-torque-at-low-speed rotary tool. It's damn near instantaneous. It takes a considerable amount of practice, though, and one "whoops" means starting over, so I don't recommend it for beginners or hobbyists for whom time isn't important.

http://www.foredom.net/steelcarvingdrills.aspx

LatakiaLover wrote:Red ---

Those skip tooth round blades are sharp as hell, and their flexiness lets you take long strokes as opposed to little choppy ones. Cutting a slot with one doesn't take long, and round-sided (cross section) parabolic slots (top view) are easy to make.

The absolute fastest & slickest methodI know of is a carving drill in a high-torque-at-low-speed rotary tool. It's damn near instantaneous. It takes a considerable amount of practice, though, and one "whoops" means starting over, so I don't recommend it for beginners or hobbyists for whom time isn't important.

http://www.foredom.net/steelcarvingdrills.aspx

I have seen these in action.....quite impressive.

Thanks Red.

The absolute fastest & slickest methodI know of is a carving drill in a high-torque-at-low-speed rotary tool. It's damn near instantaneous. It takes a considerable amount of practice, though, and one "whoops" means starting over, so I don't recommend it for beginners or hobbyists for whom time isn't important.

George,
I have some of them. All I'll say is that I'm still practicing and the junk bucket is filling up.
Chas.