The mighty buffer

[notow1]

So this morning I was working on what was turning out to be the best pipe I have ever made. A perfectly shaped black rusticated billiard with a nice white saddle stem. The buffer took control, as the stummel hit the floor I immediately thought maybe it isn't damaged. Right there in front of Me on the workbench sat the shank, only the shank, no stummel attached. It was damaged. I'm glad I don't do this for a living or I would be really depressed. Norm.

[d.huber]

So this morning I was working on what was turning out to be the best pipe I have ever made. A perfectly shaped black rusticated billiard with a nice white saddle stem. The buffer took control, as the stummel hit the floor I immediately thought maybe it isn't damaged. Right there in front of Me on the workbench sat the shank, only the shank, no stummel attached. It was damaged. I'm glad I don't do this for a living or I would be really depressed. Norm.

Been there, man. Just think of that one as a great learning experience.

[caskwith]

The more you buff, the less this happens.

[LatakiaLover]

Norm ---

There is no reason that the "snatched by a buffer" thing should ever happen. Meaning, if it does, you are using the wrong tools.

By that I mean good work can be done with a setup that makes it impossible (for all practical purposes) to lose control of the workpiece.

In the repair biz, you are always working on someone else's property, which makes the dreaded Buffer Snatch a very big deal. Carvers can only lose time and maybe a bit of material. A repair guy stands to lose much more. Imagine firing an Ivarsson, Nordh, or Gotoh from a cannon. As a result, having a setup where that can't happen (again, for all practical purposes) is essential.

The main thing is learning how to achieve the desired result by NEVER using a soft buff over 6" in diameter, keep all buffs narrow, and don't spin them over 1800 rpm. Also, use textured "electronics assembly" style gloves when working on difficult shapes.

http://www.amazon.com/Microflex-MF300L- ... ber+gloves

I have never---as in, not once in many thousands of pipes---had one snatched from my hands.

[d.huber]

I have never---as in, not once in many thousands of pipes---had one snatched from my hands.

Knock on wood, George!

[d.huber]

http://www.amazon.com/Microflex-MF300L- ... ber+gloves

I use these too. Love 'em.

[Sasquatch]

In more technical terms, "buffer snatch" (excellent term) is a form of kickback. Kickback occurs on just about every tool where a piece and auto-feed BACK into a cutting, grinding or in our case, buffing head. This in turn can only occur if traction can be gained by the machine by grabbing more of the work piece. So for example, holding a stem and "dragging" it so your hand is, relative to the motion of the wheel, in front of the workpiece, rather than by holding the piece "into" the turning buff, makes it 99% less likely the the piece will be snatched - there's no reason for it to be, no way for the machine to grab it. Not every section of every pipe can be held this way, but most parts of most pipes can.

[baweaverpipes]

Finger in the bowl...........two hands...........tight grip...........never lose one again!

[caskwith]

No soft buffs over 6", damn I'd better get rid of my 12" unstitched then lol

[wisemanpipes]

yeah, all my buffs are soft 8" and ive never had a fly away. I keep my speed down to around 700-850rpm.

[notow1]

I think You are all saying I need to be smarter than the tools I am working with and I agree, thanks, Norm.

[andrew]

I use 8" buffs all the time. Just takes time to learn. Buffing is a whole skill in and of itself.

andrew

[Sasquatch]

Finger in the bowl...........two hands...........tight grip...........never lose one again!

Agreed and I'd add ... move slow and deliberately...

[PremalChheda]

The more you buff, the less this happens.

Seems like the more I use ole "Betsy" the more she grabs..

[LatakiaLover]

For those of you who have learned to use 8, 10, and 12" wheels without buffersnatch, I believe you, and that's cool. My point was since it is effectively impossible with narrow ones 6" diameter and down, and good results are possible with them, why use anything else? Especially for a new carver, who already has plenty of stuff to lose sleep over without making stuff more difficult/risky than necessary.

[Tyler]

For those of you who have learned to use 8, 10, and 12" wheels without buffersnatch, I believe you, and that's cool. My point was since it is effectively impossible with narrow ones 6" diameter and down, and good results are possible with them, why use anything else? Especially for a new carver, who already has plenty of stuff to lose sleep over without making stuff more difficult/risky than necessary.

6" will snatch too, I've done it.

The reason I don't like 6" is I have to worry (more) about the arbor and/or bolt scratching the stem.

[Joe Hinkle Pipes]

My shop floor (6'x8') is covered in interlocking foam fitness mat. Saves pipes and tools from drops. I made a magnetic hinged pad to cover the lathe ways too. It works great as long as you remember to put it on before buffing.

[wdteipen]

My buffer hasn't snatched one from me in over a year but today, my new VFD/motor sanding disc grabbed a pipe with stem attached out of my hand and tossed it across the room. Hit the floor and snapped the tenon. It's a good thing I was wearing my respirator because the words coming out of my mouth would have made a sailor blush.

[andrew]

That's a funny image

andrew

[Alden]

I'd buffer snatch. In a heartbeat.