Introduction and a *Finished Poker for Critique

[Thomas Tkach]

Edit for completion:






I will go make more, but if you've got anything to add, I appreciate it! Also, apologize for the lighting.

Original post: First off, thanks to all of you for providing the wealth of information and feedback on this forum. It is such a blessing. I have been a long-time lurker (4+ years), and at one point I read every thread in the Gallery that still had pictures up, critique and all. I've kept pretty up to date since. You all have ruined my appreciation of cheap estate pipes! I feel like I'm a part of things here, even though I've not posted much before, so forgive me if I seem too familiar in some of my posting.

I finally got some pre-drilled kits to work on and here is my initial effort on the first:











I plan to rusticate (Nail-tool) due to the myriad flaws, but leave the rim, base, and a band at the stem junction smooth. I also plan to put a bevel on the inside of the rim to hide the little bit of tear-out there. For the stem, I was thinking to shorten the saddle by filing the back half or so flat. Is that a good idea? Should I try to smooth out the ridges on the stem? What else am I missing here before I start to rusticate (I want the practice fine-tuning the shape, even if the rustication will hide flaws.)?

Don't be gentle...like all new pipe-makers, I think I'm the best thing to happen to this world since sliced bread (just kidding).

P. S. I have two more kits to carve, a Dublin/Canadian (I want to cut the stem down to circular for a lumberman-style stem-shank), and a chubby-ish billiard close to the proportions of the pocket billiard Mrs. Piersel posted, but scaled a little bigger. Which of the two should I try to do next?

[uniquebriar]

congratulations on making something you like welcome aboard to pipe making. Now go finish it up so we can see the end results.

[sandahlpipe]

Well, you should finish the pipe so we can see what you intended to do with it. It's hard to critique on an unfinished pipe. Lengthening the saddle may look nice, but the best thing is to try it and see if you like the result. If you don't like it, don't do it again.

You should definitely shape the button and thin out the bite zone. You've got a good shank/bowl junction. The shank is too fat for the outer diameter of the bowl. You can see this from the top. But then the profile view lets the shank look too thin for the height of the bowl.

Keep making pipes, and let us see this one finished.

[Thomas Tkach]

Thanks for the critique. I will definitely post finished pics, but I wanted to get some input before I did anything that's not reversible (messing with the saddle). Due to limited funding, I can't just eff up the stem and go buy another (especially since I can't turn the tenon myself yet). Here is what I'm planning on doing; hopefully it helps:



Regarding the shank, I see what you mean about the top view. I was somewhat limited in my choice of shank size due to the dimensions of the preformed stem. I wanted to make it a little fatter, but Steve didn't have a stem available in the length I wanted, so I went a little smaller. I was also looking at the profile only when designing it, so I didn't think about the ratio to bowl diameter. I'll think about that more next time.

[Thomas Tkach]

Well, I pretty much carried out my plan. Finished pics are in the OP.

[sandahlpipe]

Your stem is a bit wonky. Next time, try to use the light reflections to see where the light is reflecting. If it's wavy, do some more sanding until it's flat. Nail boards (like the ones you find in a manicure section) can be helpful for straightening the lines.

Overall, not bad. The rustication is interesting and the stain and finish look decent. You can probably get more of a polish on the smooth parts with some practice.


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[Thomas Tkach]

Yeah, I figured the stem would be. It had some weird lines to begin with that I couldn't completely work around. At what point do you start looking at that (file, 150 grit, 400 grit)? Do you wet it to get a reflection to help with shaping, or give it a sloppy buff between to make it more shiny?

I may go back at it; but I was getting a bit impatient. I don't have a real buffer yet (drill or dremel in that vice), and need to work more on the smooth finish.

Thanks again for your help!

[sandahlpipe]

I always sand my stems with lots of light. I sand to 400 and get it wet to see where I'm at and then go back and fix it if necessary.

Stem blanks are usually wonky. You'll soon get frustrated with them. In the meanwhile, you will need to turn your shanks a little smaller and then you can eliminate the wonky off the sides.

You can get shiny stems with 2000 grit sandpaper and white diamond by hand, though it will take a long time and not be as shiny as a buffer.


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[Thomas Tkach]

I will probably go back and try a little harder with this stem at some point, but I was about ready to start smoking it!

The Canadian stem for my Dublin seems pretty decent, but I'm considering cutting it into a lumberman. The stem I have for my billiard is way oversized and less wonky anyway, so it should be fine, but I'm afraid the tenon was cut off center, and maybe the draft hole, and button slot, too. That one will be fun to try to line up/re-shape straight.

P.S. I really wish it were as easy as 'turning' my shank smaller, but a lathe isn't in the works for a few years.