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Hello everyone. My question is how do you stop the stain from coming off the briar? I'm using the leather dyes.

Not sure exactly what you mean, but I'll attempt an answer.

1. Some stain will come off the briar no matter what. Just from sanding or buffing after staining.

2. If it's coming off after finishing, that's why some people will use a spit coat of shellac to set the stain. I personally let it sit over night to keep the stain that soaked in on the pipe, then I'll sand with high grits to get the excess off.

3. You can stain it after prepping the briar with heat or denatured alcohol to open up the grain before staining. This will take some experimentation. With the grain properly opened, the stain will penetrate deeper.

4. If you're staining at high grits, the stain will not penetrate as well. I usually stain the base coat around 400 grit and the top coat at 1000.

Hope I answered your question. Feel free to clarify which answer you were looking for.

sandahlpipe wrote:Not sure exactly what you mean, but I'll attempt an answer.

1. Some stain will come off the briar no matter what. Just from sanding or buffing after staining.

2. If it's coming off after finishing, that's why some people will use a spit coat of shellac to set the stain. I personally let it sit over night to keep the stain that soaked in on the pipe, then I'll sand with high grits to get the excess off.

3. You can stain it after prepping the briar with heat or denatured alcohol to open up the grain before staining. This will take some experimentation. With the grain properly opened, the stain will penetrate deeper.

4. If you're staining at high grits, the stain will not penetrate as well. I usually stain the base coat around 400 grit and the top coat at 1000.

Hope I answered your question. Feel free to clarify which answer you were looking for.

All this information answered my question. I'm staining at 1000 grit, thanks to you now I know why the dye won't stay the briar. Thank you.

Stain generally penetrates deeper the longer it sits on the wood in liquid form. Pre wetting will just get you a less intense color than applying two layers of stain and sanding back.
If deeper stain penetration is what you are after, just apply two layers of stain and possibly a retarder on top of the second layer. That will slow down the drying process and increase penetration (to a point).

I would not recommend pre wetting your stummel. Keeping it wet longer after staining will increase stain penetration.

andrew

This is saturated with multiple layers of dark stain first. Probably enough contrast for most people.

andrew

andrew wrote:

This is saturated with multiple layers of dark stain first. Probably enough contrast for most people.

andrew

I thought we were trying to help people make nice pipes, Andrew.

Seriously, though. That's a killer contrast and something to strive for.

sandahlpipe wrote:3. You can stain it after prepping the briar with heat or denatured alcohol to open up the grain before staining. This will take some experimentation. With the grain properly opened, the stain will penetrate deeper.

How hot will make a difference in the absorption? I've seen that mentioned a couple of times but can't find any specifics on how to do it.

Heating causes the stain to evaporate more quickly, so you probably get less penetration. Just stain your stummel at ambient temps. Heating the stummel is a waste of time unless your shop is unheated.

andrew

I use a heat gun for a minute or so and then apply the base coat of stain until it won't absorb any more. Then I sand off the excess. I think the heat just helps it absorb more evenly, but it's just a hunch. I'm happy with my results. I also typically apply the stain after 600 grit or higher and the heat helps open up the surface a little. It also gives me a visual clue to where the stain still needs to soak in when it's wet.

Also, my shop is usually unheated, so it's just a habit I've gotten into.


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a little bit of mineral oil in your stain will help slow down evaporation

sandahlpipe wrote:I use a heat gun for a minute or so and then apply the base coat of stain until it won't absorb any more. Then I sand off the excess. I think the heat just helps it absorb more evenly, but it's just a hunch. I'm happy with my results. I also typically apply the stain after 600 grit or higher and the heat helps open up the surface a little. It also gives me a visual clue to where the stain still needs to soak in when it's wet.

Also, my shop is usually unheated, so it's just a habit I've gotten into.

I see now. Thanks man.

"If deeper stain penetration is what you are after, just apply two layers of stain and possibly a retarder on top of the second layer"[quote][/quote].

Andrew - what kind of retarder do you use?

andrew wrote:

This is saturated with multiple layers of dark stain first. Probably enough contrast for most people.

andrew

I'm curious as to where the hole is in that ugly thing.

andrew wrote:

This is saturated with multiple layers of dark stain first. Probably enough contrast for most people.

andrew

Amazing! I like it!

Sasquatch wrote:

andrew wrote:

This is saturated with multiple layers of dark stain first. Probably enough contrast for most people.

andrew

I'm curious as to where the hole is in that ugly thing.

You'll be able to mock it in person in a couple hours my friend!

andrew

You can use butyl or propyl alcohol. Just a slower evaporating rates than ethanol. If I remember right butyl is the slower of the two. Honestly, I would bag the retarders and just add more stain . The results probably won't vary noticeably.

andrew

you know what's hard to dye? bamboo. made some long stem gandalf style pipes and heat bent / 320 sanded bamboo for a long curved shank extension. looks good dyed to match the stummel, very hard to get dye to penetrate 2-3 coats then shellac or most of it just buffs off. any suggestions? almost thinking immersion just don't want to have a moisture problem. also considered vacuum.

I've dyed bamboo after sandblasting it and gotten reasonably good results. Even pulled of something of a contrast stain. But sandblasting bamboo is no walk in the park.

Or you can use different kind of bamboo. I have some ranging from brown to black.


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sandahlpipe wrote:I've dyed bamboo after sandblasting it and gotten reasonably good results. Even pulled of something of a contrast stain. But sandblasting bamboo is no walk in the park.

Or you can use different kind of bamboo. I have some ranging from brown to black.


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Any pictures? I'm almost done with my first work with bamboo.

I only did it with a shop pipe and that was well over a year ago. I may make another one in a few months.


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