pipemakersforum.com

I've recently come across a great lot of Dr. Grabow and other assorted pipes to refurbish that were a gift to me. For some of the pipes, the stems have been severely damaged and need more attention than some of the conventional heating and reshaping methods I've heard of can provide. I've been able to use the superglue and black pigment (I used activated charcoal) to rebuild acrylic stems with great results. But what I'm wondering is if this method would work with Vulcanite stems or if there are any other methods to rebuild those vulcanite stems?

I've repaired vulcanite stems using this method. The only problem is that the repair will be obvious as the stem oxidizes. Aesthetically, it's not a great fix for vulcanite. Functionally, it works just fine.

I too have used this technique and agree with Wayne about the issues you can face. I have started using IC-2000 which is a CA (super glue) adhesive with rubber mixed in that is available at most hobby stores. I mix it 1/2 and 1/2 with extra think gap filling CA and then apply to the stem and wait for it to harden. I then shape to match. Results are great short term, but the repair shows up as it oxidizes. All depends on what the customer wants.

Wes Keenan
Rebuilt Briars
http://www.rebuiltbriars.com

Reviving an old thread here but I plan to try this repair -- While gluing, what should I stick inside the stem to prevent glue from blocking the airway? After it sets I assume a file through the air hole will be necessary to clean up any rough edges too.

First, clean the area very well. You want it clean and as free from oxidation as possible. Most people but a pipe cleaner, with a thin coat of olive oil or the like on it, inserted into the opening of the stem and then start the glue up process. For more details check out this article at rebornpipes.com http://rebornpipes.com/2015/01/22/repai ... uper-glue/ It is a great teaching article on how to do it.

As for the glue, I fully recommend that you go to Stewart-MacDonald and purchase their black tinted glue (http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Su ... _Glue.html). I have started using it and actually like it a lot better than the method I was using previously and love the results I am getting.

If you look at the article I mentioned above, you will see that because of the size of the hole, the author had to use something bigger than a pipe cleaner to block off the hole. I have used wood, nail files, and wax paper do it in the past, but I have found something I like better, also from Stew-MacDonald. It is called Teflon Fret Damn (http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/To ... t_Dam.html) and works amazingly well. I cut it to the size I need, insert/wedge it in the stem, and do the glue buildup. When I remove the wedge holding the Teflon in, it slides right out without sticking to the glue. The price is right and 1 sheet will last a while.

Yes, you may need to file the inside a little depending on how much glue seeps in, but the Teflon works like a dream in minimizing it.

Hope this helps.

Oh wow, great links & info. Thanks!!!!

If you have any problems, drop me a line and I will be glad to help out however I can

Wes
rebuiltbriars.com

I tried using CA without any dye to fix a stem with a hairline crack, the tenon turning tool broken the tenon and to save the stem i drilled it and fit with delrin, worked but it cracked a bit up the stem. so before throwing it in the bin tried to repair, seemed to work structurally and 100% invisible when sanding, after buffing the cracked was a different color and super noticable. should i have used some clamping pressure or give up or is black tinted ca required?

When you buff clear CA, it is going to make it noticeable, and you need to use some clamping pressure. You need to use CA that is tinted. Some people have their own way of tinting CA, but most of those methods are hit and miss to say the least. Since you can buy it already tinted for not a whole lot of money, I say why bother with trying to do it yourself. That little bottle goes a long way. Here is a tip, after you open the bottle store it in the refrigerator. It will last longer and help prevent hardening in the bottle.

You definitely need to apply a little clamping pressure and made sure you are getting the CA in the crack. Otherwise, you are not really repairing the crack as much as you are filling it in or covering it over. It is a little different doing a crack repair v's a buildup to fill in a hole.

I've used pipe cleaners with a little Vaseline on it to put in the airway.

No matter what colour superglue you use the line will still be visible after buffing, the reason being the two materials are of a different hardness and behave differently when buffed, the softer material will wear away faster leaving a visible line.

Caskwith is correct, I believe if it's not a logoed stem off a rare or valuable pipe it's much easier to just replace the stem.
I've tried many a time on vulcanite stems to match the color by adding color or by using the black CA and black isn't just black
if ya know what I mean, it'll always show a little. On black Acrylic it works well and if done right can be undetected.
Oh! and I use a spray hardener that works well instead of waiting maybe a day for it to dry. Seems to dry a lot slower when not set
between two pieces as an adhesive and just as a filler. And like wdteipen I also just coat a pipe cleaner with a little Vaseline, just don't goop it on.