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Thank you Premal!

Thank you! My entry is ready: http://pipemakersforum.com/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=2104&sid=5c945733e8b0793e516b19181e618bd7 http://pipemakersforum.com/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=2105&sid=5c945733e8b0793e516b19181e618bd7 I really like the proportions of this pipe...

My entry is ready:

Do you heat and sand ALL stems to remove "zombie" scratches? I thought you need to do it just after you bend the stem... The zombie thing is more dramatic with bents but applies to straights as well. The nearest anyone can figure is "material-removal-class" sanding of ebonite ca...

Lower high spots by sanding sideways, not lengthwise. Such shape-tuning is easiest using those cushioned nail boards. Use the smoother side of a black one to start, move on to a pink one when ALMOST there, and when everything is straight---but not before---work your way up through 400, 600, and 800...

Welcome!

The pit in the first picture would need investigating, the spots in the second picture look like nothing to worry about. If you reject a pipe based on a few black spots in the chamber you will never make a saleable pipe. I knew I'm too nit-picking!!! So I will finish the second one and now I will b...

It's driving me crazy! Two blocks in a row today had tiny sandpits in the chamber. One block is grade 1 Manno, the second one is grade 2 Mimmo. I tried to re-drill one chamber with a wider brill bit hoping to remove a sandpit. The bit was shaking at first (I fed it too fast) and now I have an oversi...

Great that you were following a pattern. :D Dunhill often took that shortcut, though. Production considerations of some sort, I imagine. The easiest way to get a deeper slope cut is with a Dremel-style sanding drum, followed by sanding with a pre-curved piece of cork to hold the paper: https://www....

I've had a similar issue with those Jaws in a Nova chuck.... If the block isn't dead square, the chuck had too much flex. Currently I'm having much better luck with the chuck Premel is carrying.... but here's how I got around it: Try and square the chuck as well as possible first. then when you mak...

. PS --- The distance between the red arrows shoould be the same, top and bottom. i.e. cut the bottom "swoop" of the saddle AFTER creating the flat plane on the bottom, not before. Also, your swoop cuts are too flat/relaxed/gradual. . https://i.postimg.cc/Xvq1wmD1/Screen-Shot-2020-03-23-a...

Since ebonite is harder than wood, use Scotch Magic tape (the matte kind) stretched tight over the places near the stem that need protection when sanding to avoid "sag": https://i.postimg.cc/wTc6WkYp/2.jpg Thanks a lot, George! I rewatch all you videos many times - a LOT of brilliant info...

Seriously though, with pipes (and most crafts), less is often more. This ^^^^ Good examples of elegant simplicity: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Asmokingpipes.com+s.+bang+pipes&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwidnNO4kpboAhVOG6wKHe-DDIQQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=site%3Asmokingpipes.com+s.+bang+pipes&am...

I know... I know )) I had to try this. It was a good practice for me + this pipe was sold out in an hour :) The next one I will try to stick to elegant simplicity as close as possible. Thanks for your advice (KurtHuhn and LatakiaLover), really appreciate it! Love this forum for the honest opinions :...

Here is my first attempt for a Rhodesian...

I'm in

More pictures...

Done. I have challenged myself a lot with this one

I'm also fine with extra time.

I’m in!
It will be a great honour and a huge challenge for me to participate among the best pipe makers.