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OK, so pretty much everything has sold except for my VFD shaping/sanding/buffing motor setup. It is a 1-1/2 HP Baldor SuperE motor hooked up to a VFD to control the speed. It is hooked to a box of switches set up for all the best pipe-making speeds for shaping, sanding, buffing, etc. It is currently...

SOLD

I have a Turkish meerschaum block (NOT the pressed stuff) for sale. These are pretty much impossible to find outside of Turkey and it was not easy to get. It has also always been stored properly. I am asking $60 + 5$ shipping. PM me if interested.

First up are spoon bits: I have a set of the original Todd Johnson spoon bits. They are 18, 19, 20, and 21mm. They are the best cutting spoon bits I have ever tried. Asking $350 for the set. TJSpoonBits.jpg I also have a set of Brad Pohlmans second run of spoon bits. They are straight wall 11/16, 3/...

Hey everyone, The last couple of years have been very busy, with a lot of life changes and not much pipe making. So when I started to do some winter cleaning of the shop this month I decided that it was time to sell my pipe making equipment. I am going to be posting it in this thread as time allows,...

The chuck has been sold, thanks for your interest everyone.

Hi again everyone,

In the spirit of Christmas I am reducing the price of the chuck to $350 +$10 priority mail shipping. Won't find a better deal anywhere else and it would make a great pipe-maker Christmas present .

PM if interested.

Hi Everyone, I am selling my Ken Lamb pipe chuck. It works great (it is my favorite chuck) and is in perfect condition. I just never turn pipes on the lathe anymore and am trying to do some winter cleaning so I don't become a hoarder ;-). I am asking $400 for it. If you are interested or have any qu...

Hi Scot,

The nose radius you grind on the end of the tool should be the shape you want to radius at the base of the tenon to be.

akr

Hey Scot and Nick, Todd's post about cover's it. Although angles and such are definitely not critical for our purposes for a general right-hand stem/tenon turning tool I use 0deg side and back rake angles (i.e. the top of the tool does not get ground at all), a 0deg side cutting edge angle (i.e. the...

ToddJohnson wrote:I use old 45's.

TJ

I use old 78's.

akr

Thanks Paul, that was very helpful.

Thanks for the opinion Kurt, I'm just trying to get a good sandblasting system and method worked out and there are a lot of variables to think about--type of media, grit of media, type of system (pressure vs. syphon) and cabinet and compressor, nozzle size, pressure used, how much media in the air s...

I was wondering if anyone has had any experience blasting pipes with both a syphon system and a pressure system. I was thinking that a pressure system would give more control and would be better at getting deep craggy blasts, but I wanted to hear from you guys first.

Thanks,
akr

I also hold the pipe in one hand and stamp with the other. Just practice a bit on a discarded pipe and you should find out what works for you. Oh, and if you are getting the stamp from A&M then it helps to make a new handle for it. I made a mushroom shaped one that works quite well.

Good Luck!

If you're not happy with the piece of steel you milled you could always just get an oval drive punch--they are available in a variety of sizes for not too much money.

akr

I've actually seen a number of these floating around. I have seen them being used in the Peterson pipe factory, and I know a few makers who use them. For example, Rafa Martin has one that he restored: http://www.pipesmartin.com/imagenes/Taller/00394.jpg and Carlino over at Calabria Pipes uses someth...

T3pipes,

Acrylic is a little more tricky to bend than vulcanite, and bubbles in the acrylic can be caused by overheating it. They are a pain to get rid of because they can go quite deep--so next time try going slower and using less heat.

Good luck.

The very last thing I do when making a pipe is sand the inside to about 220 grit. I wait until after staining, buffing, and waxing so that the sanding removes any stain/compound/wax that has made its way into the top of the tobacco chamber. Having it rough does make it build a nice cake more quickly.

For what it's worth, I use something like this (from another thread) for rough shaping: So here is what I came up with: I found some hard plastic backing pads at Enco that were pretty thin, so I used those along with the 3M sanding discs and some 2" long 3/8x16 bolts. I turned some pieces of al...