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Yes, but it will be ugly. The indexable carbide thingy doesn't like wood unless it's REALLY hard wood.

McKay wrote:Anyone messed with any really dense woods, like dogwood? I'd like to try drilling and shaping, and all I have at the moment is dogwood and pecan.

My brother once made a dogwood pipe. Had kind of a floral taste to it until it had a good layer of cake built up, but it won't burn out.

Hang on to 'em. You'll need them when you need to make a churchwarden stem one of these days. You'll curse them until you figure out how much pressure to use, but they (particularly the follower rest) are very helpful for turning long noodly bits and keeping them centered.

Sorry dude, I had a lot of work stuff going on and no time to post. I'mjust glad I can finally help! I am the tenth worst pipemaker in the world, but I'm not bad at pipe tomahawks. :wink: Epoxy will break loose at 200 degrees F, but good CA glues will hold to nearly 400. Phenolic resin is the stuff ...

Not bad at all! A few hints on attaching metal to wood without dinging either: 1. Use the smallest hammer you can find. One of those "jewelers" hammer from Harbor freight with a polyurethane face is good for this. 2. For real brass pins, look for brass escutcheon pins. They are 1/16" ...

fuchi_jeg wrote:Alan your memory is amazing!

What can I say, that was a quote that tends to stick vividly in the brain, is it not?

This was covered once before. There is a most eloquent post near the bottom by Nick. Look for it...viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2798&start=0

Cool experiment! I once stuck a thermocouple in the bowl of my large shop pipe (7/8" diameter chamber, 1.5 inches deep) just to see what kind of temperatures were happening in the bowl. In the center of the bowl while half-smoked, it idled at around 450 degrees F, but puffing like a steam engin...

That's some great advice there. I'll remember to get the low odour and let the flame burn. One thing I was wondering about though is how easy it is to relight a bowl that's near the end of it's life with the pipe insert on a Zippo? I'm talking about when the pipe goes out after smoking a while and ...

Or fill it with briar dust and add a drop of thin ca glue, let dry, sand smooth, repeat if necessary. It will show as a fill, but it'll work.

Alden wrote:

brurobas wrote:Thank you guys!

Alden, i am sorry, i forgot one word behind Horn. Yes, it is acrylic horn

AHA ! So you do have Acrylic Horned Iberian Cows !

Where did you think organic acrylic came from? Silly boy...

I got one of those little 2-oz tubs of black dye for system 3 epoxy at my local Woodcraft store a few years ago. A single drop will dye a HUGE amount of epoxy. I suspect with the amount I use it will last me a lifetime.

I can't address safety concerns (of which I have none, I smoke unlined antler frequently), but if you don't line it it wil turn brown like meerschaum.

Did you Suigi the wood to bring out the grain? It pops. Dunno what "suigi" means... :oops: I use aquafortis, aka ferric nitrate. Nitric acid diluted x4 with distilled water, then dissolve iron filings/steel wool in it until it can't take any more. Apply, dry it off immediately with a prop...

I just use my chamber bits...

Anyway, back to the thread. From what I've looked up, woodworkers seem to either use wire or cutouts to inlay, or some stamp/carve a well in the shape of the design and actually pour molten silver into it. I'd guess that the silver cools fast enough that it doesn't scortch the wood. The question is...

What I'd do is use the motor and speed control off the treadmill to power a drive wheel (say, a 6" laminated wood pulley) at the bottom and a 2" backstand idler at the top. You can set that up to use a standard belt size like 2x72 or 2x132. Forget making your own belts from shop rolls, man...

Yes. Hope that helps. Seriously though, get a copy of "The Complete Metalsmith" by Tim McCreight, then invest in the jewelry tools needed to pull it off. I do lot of silver work on my pipe tomahawks, not much on ordinary pipes beyond the odd band if I crack a stummel at the mortise. All yo...

I have one of those 3-4 tpi 3/8" Timberwolf blades on my 14" Rikon, and I'm pretty sure it would take the end off a swung baseball bat without noticing or slowing the speed of the swing...

Pretty!













The girl's not bad either.