#25 Dublin

[DocAitch]

I "finished" this pipe a couple of weeks ago, but was not happy with the shank and stem. The stem was black ebonite and was about 2cm longer than the one in these photos. The shank was also thicker and the shank and stem together made the bowl look small.
A couple of days ago I picked up the pipe and the bowl fell off and hit the floor, damaging the surface. I think the change in the weather allowed the mortise to loosen. It was tight enough before that I could file the stem without it rotating.
I replaced the stem with a shorter one and refinished the stummel.
I welcome any comments.








I am still working on my buffing and waxing .
DocAitch

[calsbeek]

that grain tho'

[Ocelot55]

I like this one a lot! Doc, this shows a lot of growth from what you were posting several months ago. Keep up the good work!

[pipedreamer]

Wow you get there fast. Big improvement!!!

[Sasquatch]

Looking good, nice and clean.

Aesthetic criticism: More meat could and probably should come off the heel/chin. Nothing about the shape of the bowl or the stem says "Italian". Why does the chin? (check that bottom line with a ruler too... make it STRAIGHT if it's supposed to be straight).

Why the bend in the stem? It isn't a bent stummel, and it doesn't make the pipe more interesting. If you want to make a bent pipe, make a bent pipe. I think the only exception to this rule is maybe the Prince shape, and even then it's real nice if you put a couple degrees on the shanks on those...


Technical: Nice funnel on the tenon, clean that shit up... is your tool dull? Find a way to polish that - it's ugly, but if it's rough, it will cause condensation.

There is a gleam line at the top of the bowl in most shots - you have a tiny little rounded edge at the rim, from sandpaper curling over as you sand. Don't have that. More care on the directionality of your sanding, or how you hold things, or get stiffer backers for your sanding media. But that little round-over is dead amateur. "Look how much I sanded!" Yeah, I see exactly how much!

But your slot looks nice, coloration is pretty even (on a fairly uneven hunk of wood), I see no scratches... it's a nice pipe.

[Onelief]

I like it Doc. What colors did you use?

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[DocAitch]

Thank you gentlemen,
Sasquatch, when I looked at the pipe I thought the bowl was cocked back a couple of degrees and decided it looked better with a little bend. I will work on my sanding and funnel work. I cut that funnel with an Irwin counter sink and it is decidedly not a sharp tool. I use a relative stiff backer for sanding but tend to round my strokes if I don't pay attention.
Onelief, that is a maroon under stain with a diluted Vintage Amber over. The maroon is Fiebing, the amber is Transtint. I don't particularly care for the Transtints in general and they cost 4-5 times as much, but I haven't gotten around to mixing my own yellow/reds.
DocAitch

[LatakiaLover]

Doc ---

Get a few of these

http://www.feltbobs.com/catalog/small-c ... bobs_CB2.6

in soft & medium, plus a threaded mandrel to mount them on. Chuck in a Dremel or Foredom rotary tool, buzz against some red rouge to load it, then use to polish inside the tenon cone.

Go slow at first until you get the feel of it. Too much too fast will create a lot of heat and will gall the surface instead of shine it. (Double true with acrylic)

Also, when cutting that countersink cut use the slowest speed you have available. (probably around 250 rpm?)

[Charl]

Much nicer, probably your best so far.
To add to the above: personally, I prefer to do a more shallow countersink on the tenon. The same regarding the mortise. Oh, and leaving the mortise countersunk virgin, to me looks unfinished. But that's me and only personal bits and bobs.
Well done!

[sandahlpipe]

For inside the tenon, you can also wrap some 600 grit sandpaper around a 1/16" drill bit and polish it that way while you've still got it on the lathe.