Simple poker for review

[Massis]

Shapewise this one isn't very spectacular, but I'm quite pleased with the finish (namely the smooth parts), the stemwork and button/slot.
I've also grown quite fond of my stamp, makes my pipes really mine.
The stummel is a Spanish "Extra" grade Ebouchon, the stem is handcut from Japanese ebonite rod.

Now I'd like to hear you all disagree and tear it apart

[oklahoma red]

The only nit picky comment I can make is that there looks like a slight bulge on the bowl right above where the shank and bowl meet.
Like I say, nit picky but it caught my eye immediately.
Great job otherwise in my opinion.

[Massis]

The only nit picky comment I can make is that there looks like a slight bulge on the bowl right above where the shank and bowl meet.
Like I say, nit picky but it caught my eye immediately.
Great job otherwise in my opinion.

Nah, you're right. It's there. The wirewheel rustication can't reach that spot so I have to do the last bit by hand. Guess I missed a spot

Just like slightly higher on the same location, I took off a bit too much. Combined with that bulge the back (front?) of the bowl appears to slant forward more than the opposite side.

[sandahlpipe]

Your button is a little wonky. The slot isn't perfectly centered in the button, and the button isn't centered on the blade of the stem.

I think also that the angle on the saddle is too sharp and would look better with a little bit of a radius. As it is, though, it's a nice pipe.

[Massis]

Your button is a little wonky. The slot isn't perfectly centered in the button, and the button isn't centered on the blade of the stem.

The single most difficult pipe in my opinion, getting the bloody button centered and the button shaped evenly arround it... It's been getting a lot better lately, but still not quite there yet.

I think also that the angle on the saddle is too sharp and would look better with a little bit of a radius. As it is, though, it's a nice pipe.

I actually had it smoother originally, but then decided it looked better if it was "sharp".

This one I did a little while back, with more radius, but no cut on the sides. Do you like this better?

[sandahlpipe]

I do like the one with the little radius better. The radius just ties it all together and makes it feel like a single piece instead of two disjointed pieces. I suppose it's a matter of taste to some degree.

[DocAitch]

[quote="Massis"][quote="sandahlpipe"]Your button is a little wonky. The slot isn't perfectly centered in the button, and the button isn't centered on the blade of the stem. [\quote]
"The single most difficult pipe in my opinion, getting the bloody button centered and the button shaped evenly arround it... It's been getting a lot better lately, but still not quite there yet."[\quote]

I am right there with the wonky buttons. I have difficulty getting the whole bite area in the same plane as the slot. As you have concluded, this appears to be a matter of practice and attention. Each time I do one, I learn to mark and cut more carefully.
Nice pipe.
DocAitch

[pipedreamer]

You will see and correct the little items that make this, a nice pipe, or a great pipe.

[LatakiaLover]

I am right there with the wonky buttons. I have difficulty getting the whole bite area in the same plane as the slot.

Cut a 1/16" tall "guide slot" with a rotary blade or a knife-edge file before starting to shape anything.

Put a 1/4" wide strip of masking tape EXACTLY over the guide slot, centered and aligned, that runs all the way down both sides of the rod. Hold in place with an "around wrap" or two at the tenon end.

Remove material evenly by quarters, in turns. (Keeping the stock visually even and balanced at all times helps produce a symmetric end result)

When you reach the edges of the quarter inch tape, replace it with a 1/8" strip and repeat.

When you reach the edges of the 1/8" tape and everything looks right, remove the tape and start to truly cut the slot. Keep it as straight & level as you can, but remember to check alignment/straightness often and if things start to get twisted you still have enough material at BOTH the bite zone edges AND the area around the slot to compensate for quite a while. Only when the slot is at its final height and the bite zone has near knife-edges are you out of material. Meaning constantly go back and forth between slot shaping and bite zone shaping to zero in on the final result. Check, cut some, check some more, cut some more. Think "walking it in". That way---provided you pay attention and don't start to daydream or similar---you CAN"T end up crooked.

[Massis]

That way you CAN"T end up crooked.