Pictorial: How I Make A Pipe

[clickklick]

Probably pretty novice. But here it is.
http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/h ... ost-979398

[Massis]

Very complete pictorial, and a nice pipe as a result.

If I may offer 2 remarks, that would be:
1) please get tower jaws for that chuck! There's way too little coverage on the briar, I'd hate to see you get hurt by a flying block of briar!

2) be really carefull sawing round stock on the bandsaw like this, it can easily grab the rod, twist it and smack your hand into the sawblade! The safest way is to make a small V-shaped block to put under it, so you can hold it in place easily.

[Ocelot55]

I've seen this thread before. Very good run down!

Two things I can't seem to get over. Those jaws! Dude it makes me nervous just looking at it! Second, I really like your downdraft table idea. Does it really work?

[pipedreamer]

I think you did a great job. The pain in the hands seems to never go away, at least for me. Enjoyed your process and the best to you!!!

[DocAitch]

Thank you for sharing this. It is very helpful to see how someone else does things. It's also interesting to see how we each solve common issues with a slightly different method.
I like that down draft table as well, and I like the PVC hood under your buff wheel. It is obvious that you put more thought into your "infrastructure" than I do. I am still working in my carport with tarps hung on 3 sides. I will have to address that this fall before I go through another winter.
I only recently started to mark my stem rod with tape like you do (I only started my stems from rod this past Decenber). I have also found that profiling the button earlier in the process helps with orientation when thinning the bite area after the tape is gone, and not having to deal with that extra material at the button when smoothing is a bonus.
I will be looking into one of the Iwasaki round files, I am presently using some chain saw files.
I also think that when you gain confidence with the belt sander that you will be using it to get down closer to the final thickness. The technique will come to you as you work.
Nice job, it's a shame about that flaw.
DocAitch

[clickklick]

Thanks guys. The comments further solidify I'm headed on the right path. I haven't posted anything for critique in a while simply for the fact that My skills aren't yet good enough that I can't honestly critique myself. When I start thinking my work is wonderful, I will need another set of eyes.

As for the tower jaws, I looked at some GBatson had at the Chicago show this year, and I believe a set that Ken Lamb had as well, and just couldn't foot the cost. I'm also not sure how well they will work on my G4000 Grizzly (its only a 9X20). Maybe some day I'll invest in some, but for now . . . its too painful. I try and stand out of the way, and clamp the block really tight, but am understanding at the high speeds, there is a definite risk of it flying out. But money for tooling is tight as over the last year I have invested heavily.

The downdraft table really does work. I can tell when I don't have the suction on to the table. I can see visible dust coming up off of parts during sanding. When the suction is on there is no dust to see as it all gets pulled downward to the table. The side walls on the table are very important to truly get the benefit. I tried it without and the table wasnt nearly as effective. I do this in my basement, so trying to keep the dust confined is important as I have my family upstairs. I am working on a fresh air intake and outtake to allow for the non visible fine dust to be moved out. I currently use a Cyclone Laguna dust collect for 5 micron and have a powermatic pm 1200 air cleaner for 2micron filtering. Although Premal has opened my eyes to the need of actually mitigating the presence of the dust as opposed to just managing it.

The table is really just a plywood board with holes drilled through, I made some legs and frame with 2X4s and then put a big gulp hood underneath with a 4" hose going back to my dust collector. The only complaint I have really is that Sometimes it is a bit awkward to work over the downdraft table, when I would really prefer to keep my arms closer to my body for certain operations and hand work. But I make it work. If anyone has any other tips or tricks or suggestions, feel free to message me! I am always looking to keep improving and making things better! Technique and hand coordination are getting better with each pipe, but knowledge is power.

Sometimes I know what the results NEED to be, but am either not at the skill level to make the result happen, or am completely baffled by the process of HOW to make it happen. I have been collecting Rad Davis and Stephen Downie Pipes for a while and always try to looks that my collection to see what to improve on or to compare to try to strive to achieve, but some things just have to be done over and over until you start to truly understand.

Also, that Iwasaki flat file has very limited uses. So I would highly suggest just getting the 3mm round file! And the more I try the fret seating file at the button crease . . . the more I seem to just create more scratches. Which is the thing I am trying to improve the most, as I always seem to have a scratch somewhere and I don't find it till final polishing of the stem.

Anyway, sorry for the long winded post!

[Massis]

The tower jaws don't have to be an entire separate chuck. You can have jaws made for the chuck you are using now. With a bit of luck (I believe there was someone on the forums here who made them?) you'll only be set back 75$.

I currently use a Oneway Chuck with the #2 tower jaws. It's not an amazing Ken Lamb setup, but at least it's safe enough to use frequently without being hit in the face by a block of briar, which would cost a whole lot more than just a chuck...

You should at least turn around those jaws so you clamp with the entire height of them, not just the little stubby part you use now.

[mightysmurf8201]

I would recommend chopping down the shank of your spade bit. It will reduce chatter. I only leave about 1.5" on mine and I drill the entire chamber with it, no pilot hole. Just be sure to keep it sharp.

[Massis]

I would recommend chopping down the shank of your spade bit. It will reduce chatter. I only leave about 1.5" on mine and I drill the entire chamber with it, no pilot hole. Just be sure to keep it sharp.

Mine still have 2-3" shanks, and I do the same without chatter. It's mostly a matter of chucking them well, keeping them sharp and starting the hole slowly.

[DocAitch]

Also, that Iwasaki flat file has very limited uses. So I would highly suggest just getting the 3mm round file! And the more I try the fret seating file at the button crease . . . the more I seem to just create more scratches. Which is the thing I am trying to improve the most, as I always seem to have a scratch somewhere and I don't find it till final polishing of the stem.

Anyway, sorry for the long winded post!

I was referring to the Iwasaki round file. I have a flat and agree that it is too aggressive for my technique.
I now have serious lathe envy (mine is a Harbor Freight 7x10") which is adequate for stems but not for stummels, so I am contemplating which of my fire arms accumulation will go on the block, but found a great deal on an M1, and really NEED a shotgun for sporting clays. Decisions....decisions.......
DocAitch