I have tried as best I could to use your comments from my previous pipe.
Is it still Dublin? I'm not sure. But I kind of like it.
I'd love to hear what you think about it.
#16 Dublin
#16 Dublin
"Making pipes is easy. Making GOOD pipes is hard. Just keep at it and never be satisfied" - George Dibos
www.nouw.com/jp_pipes/about-me
www.etsy.com/ie/shop/JPPipes?ref=search_shop_redirect
www.facebook.com/JP-Pipes-962144290546960/?ref=hl
www.nouw.com/jp_pipes/about-me
www.etsy.com/ie/shop/JPPipes?ref=search_shop_redirect
www.facebook.com/JP-Pipes-962144290546960/?ref=hl
Re: #16 Dublin
Man, you are really working hard! I wish that I could find the time you have to work on pipes. You are going to get it really soon I think.
A few things that I would comment that can make this pipe more appealing,
1. If you are making a straight pipe and it is not a poker don't let the bottom of the bowl dip down past the plane of the shank. I have done the same thing when making a tapered shank.
2. Your turning looks good. I am guessing you have had a lathe for a while right? I am not in love with the shank and bowl junction. You can see it in picture 2 in the reflection. It would be better if the bowl followed the same profile all the way down to the radius where the bowl meets the shank. Make the radius a little bit sharper.
3. As far as the stem, try to make it a bit thinner at the bite zone and definitely make the button less chunky but not any shorter. Also I don't like how the end of the shank flares with the stem. It would look a lot more sleek with the whole shank and stem keeping the same taper all the way to the saddle. Maybe someone else would like it, I don't know. I guess that is where design and taste comes in. Different smokes for different folks.
Keep this in mind, The last two pipes that you put up have been ok. You got a lot right, and with a little correction here and there they can be really good looking pipes. Instead of making a new pipe, take the pipe you finished and try to improve those aspects that aren't quite right and finish it again. That is what I have done and if I manage to not mess it up, I always like it more the second time.
Great work, and if you can keep going and not get down about the constructive criticism, soon no one will have anything to add.
I do like the slot at the top of the bowl, looks pretty clean.
A few things that I would comment that can make this pipe more appealing,
1. If you are making a straight pipe and it is not a poker don't let the bottom of the bowl dip down past the plane of the shank. I have done the same thing when making a tapered shank.
2. Your turning looks good. I am guessing you have had a lathe for a while right? I am not in love with the shank and bowl junction. You can see it in picture 2 in the reflection. It would be better if the bowl followed the same profile all the way down to the radius where the bowl meets the shank. Make the radius a little bit sharper.
3. As far as the stem, try to make it a bit thinner at the bite zone and definitely make the button less chunky but not any shorter. Also I don't like how the end of the shank flares with the stem. It would look a lot more sleek with the whole shank and stem keeping the same taper all the way to the saddle. Maybe someone else would like it, I don't know. I guess that is where design and taste comes in. Different smokes for different folks.
Keep this in mind, The last two pipes that you put up have been ok. You got a lot right, and with a little correction here and there they can be really good looking pipes. Instead of making a new pipe, take the pipe you finished and try to improve those aspects that aren't quite right and finish it again. That is what I have done and if I manage to not mess it up, I always like it more the second time.
Great work, and if you can keep going and not get down about the constructive criticism, soon no one will have anything to add.
I do like the slot at the top of the bowl, looks pretty clean.
Re: #16 Dublin
The proportion between stem and shank are definitely more pleasing, as is the shank profile.
The transition and proximal bowl profile at the transition could be tweaked, and the profile of the stem in the vertical view could also use a little some tweaking. It goes from concave to convex where a smooth shallower concavity would look better.
That being said, this is markedly improved from the previous Dublin.
Well done, Jakob.
DocAitch
The transition and proximal bowl profile at the transition could be tweaked, and the profile of the stem in the vertical view could also use a little some tweaking. It goes from concave to convex where a smooth shallower concavity would look better.
That being said, this is markedly improved from the previous Dublin.
Well done, Jakob.
DocAitch
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
Re: #16 Dublin
One more thing to add: Normally (in my eyes) when you have a straight shank, keep the stem straight. Tapered shank, then tapered stem. That is when seen from above. Every now and then it will be different, but in most cases I find this works well.
As an aside, I never ever liked to "go back" to a pipe. Starting a new one and learning from the previous mess always worked better for me.
As an aside, I never ever liked to "go back" to a pipe. Starting a new one and learning from the previous mess always worked better for me.
Re: #16 Dublin
Thanks for your thoughts. I see what you mean. I will work on it.
"Making pipes is easy. Making GOOD pipes is hard. Just keep at it and never be satisfied" - George Dibos
www.nouw.com/jp_pipes/about-me
www.etsy.com/ie/shop/JPPipes?ref=search_shop_redirect
www.facebook.com/JP-Pipes-962144290546960/?ref=hl
www.nouw.com/jp_pipes/about-me
www.etsy.com/ie/shop/JPPipes?ref=search_shop_redirect
www.facebook.com/JP-Pipes-962144290546960/?ref=hl