the Tap and die method

Interested in making clay pipes, meerschaums, olive woods, or some other exotic material? Talk about it here.
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ckr
Posts: 386
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Newport, Rhode Island USA

the Tap and die method

Post by ckr »

Having picked up so much from forum contributors I thought I would take the time and try to post a contribution that others may find of some use. Admittedly this procedure is a bit off the wall but I wanted a stem on that block and didn’t want to epoxy it.

I suppose this could have gone under stem work or repairs but it is so Mesquite.


Was wandering through the hardware store and saw 2 bags of Mesquite chunks for 3.50 ea. and remembering a post on this forum grabbed them both. Got home and grabbed the pipe suitable chunks. I had just gotten a lathe so I used one to make a dowel.

I sanded down a block and squared it and noted that Mesquite has a nice grain and is hard as .. well it is hard believe me. Problem was no shank, and epoxy was obviously out. Don’t know how this idea came to me, but once it set in there was no stopping it. I guess I just had to use that dowel for something. On problem was getting the shank to screw in all the way and butt up tight on the bottom of the tapped mortise. A needle file on the threads where it was tight (you could see where the two pieces of wood were meeting from the wear) solved the problem and it butts in tight.

Hind sight: the mortise could have been about a ¼ inch rather than ¾ of an inch, the tap could have been grinded down and much of the starter threading removed making useable threads all the way to the bottom (note the cut in half mortise). Mostly because the chamber is going to be very close to the bottom of the mortise.

Anyway, I have lots of briar pipes so this will be a new experience and I’ve heard not a bad one either, at that.

Image

I'll post how it turnes out.
Last edited by ckr on Mon Jan 01, 2007 4:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Fumo in pace :pipe:
User avatar
ckr
Posts: 386
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Newport, Rhode Island USA

Post by ckr »

Arrg,

Yea, yea probably the hottest topic on this forum. I have had so many PM's on these blocks that I just had to respond on line in order to stem the tide that is flooding my mail box. :)

The two-tone block that I had high hopes for turned out to have some serious cracks - amazingly enough It smokes ok - breaths ok too.

The second block turned out to be an egg, it is still a virgin.

The T&D pipe, was died a dark mahogany. I had come home after work and for it's virgin voyage filled it with GP Samarra and put the match to it. H'mmm different, so I tamped it and put my second match to the blend. Took a couple of puffs, full bodied smoke but it seemed to subdue the latakia, not a good thing. Since, I have left it doing latakia blends but mostly in the mornings when I don't mind that it subdues the blends somewhat.

Oddly, I once filled it with Laural Heights, which I consider a bit bland.
Could be the way I packed it or tamped it for the second match but it did
magic to the blend - a full thick smoke and a light woody taste, go figure.

It has become a regular, is breaking in well and allowing the latakia to come through much more as it builds it's cake. I figure soon as it cakes it will smoke fairly neutral. I think I like it because it looks like it
was built by a plumber and is a bit of a rebel pipe. I think I just relate to
it. 8)


Image
Fumo in pace :pipe:
Christopher Brunton
Posts: 42
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:43 am
Location: Sacramento, CA

Wood threads

Post by Christopher Brunton »

Well, I don't know if this will help at this point, but my father gets catalogs from Garrett Wade....they have a lot of interesting tools. Your post reminded me of something I saw in their catalog, so I looked it up online...
check this out....

http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=98N11.01


-chris
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