that place on a bent that's hard to get to ...

[TimGeorge]

Gentlemen -- not a big deal but aggravating nonetheless. What is the secret to sanding/buffing/finishing that #$!!*@ spot on a bent pipe where you can't get a sanding disc, buffer or often even a finger ... ?



I suspect the answer is "patience," but I am hoping for "you just need to buy this little thing ...."

[KurtHuhn]

I suspect the answer is "patience," but I am hoping for "you just need to buy this little thing ...."

ROFL!!!

Well, if you want to buy a thing, I have some available:
http://www.pipecrafter.com/pipes/tools/motor_arbor.php
http://www.pipecrafter.com/pipes/tools/da_pad.php

The real answer is, you may be able to use the above once you're comfortable with the tool. Beyond that, it's mostly patience. I use the above tool coupled with abralon pads, which overhang the edge of the backup pad by as much as .5" or so, to get into most folds and tight areas. However, once in a great while, I still have to wrap an abralon pad around a brass rod (.25" usually) to get into a tight area.

[ToddJohnson]

Take wet/dry silicon carbide paper, and tear it into a half-sheet. Fold that half-sheet into thirds. Once you've done that, the paper can be held and manipulated in any number of ways to get into any number of places. In this case, just fold or roll the paper over and it will give you a sufficiently rigid sanding radius to get the stem/shank junction.

TJ

[Sasquatch]

I like foam backed pads for the same purpose. The big advantage of a thin foam backing is that you don't get the cracks/folded edges that can occur when you are dealing with sandpaper, and that really reduces the chances of snagging something and making things worse rather than better.

[TimGeorge]

Thanks, guys, for the insights. I do usually manage to get it sanded and stained, using a combination of the methods suggested by Kurt and Todd, so I guess the real difficulty is polishing. I either take off some stain with the buffer (as you can see near the bamboo if you look closely at that picture) or nick the shank somehow trying to get to that spot.

[T3pipes]

Dremel

[ToddJohnson]

Dremel

No, not a good idea.

TJ

[Charl]

Why?
I don't owe a Dremel, but thought it might work nice for polishing in those difficult-to-reach places.

[KurtHuhn]

The wheel is too small, resulting in a highly localized buffing action. The difference will be pretty obvious. Also, a dremel tends to spin very fast, and you could potentially burn the surface of the wood. It's largely ineffective for applying carnuba, and of dubious value for buffing with compounds.

[Sasquatch]

Yes dremels are basically uncontrolleable little menaces. Good at what they are good at, but useless or even harmful in many circumstances.

[Charl]

Oh, OK. Thanks

[Briarfox]

I usually use one of those pink pencil eraser blocks. Just wrap the sandpaper around it and your good to go. It's rigid enough to keep a flat, flat, but it will also give a little to keep the form on curves.

[ToddJohnson]

Automotive valve cover gaskets also make a good "backing pad" for hand sanding.

TJ

[ArtGuy]

Tape duct tape to the back of the sandpaper strip to make it less likely to tear in tight spots.

[SimeonTurner]

I have always meant to post this and kept forgetting.

These little guys work great for sanding in the tight spots like the one in question:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200523 ... -of-8.aspx

9 bucks. Not too shabby.

[vasco]

Maybe this abrasive cord helps...

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200027 ... meter.aspx

Never tried it but it looks a good idea.