cmueller wrote:Below are two new ones, one is a turtle shape variation, and the last is a sitter. I had high hopes for the sitter but the final shape needed to be changed due to getting rid of big pits and now it will not sit. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks
I think you did a good job on both of these pipes, but there are some stylistic issues, IMO. Things become subjective here, but I'll share my thoughts.
Both:
1. They both look tiny to me for starters. That's not bad, but they do appear as if the entirety of each would fit in my palm.
2. Try putting more side to side curve on the top and bottom of your stems. They don't look flat, but bringing the upper and lower lines on the side of your stems closer together will make them appear thinner. I suspect that they're plenty thin, but the side lines trick the eye into thinking they are not.
To illustrate #2 (before bending, of course):
The first pipe:
1. I'd start the lower curve of the stem much closer to the shank/stem face, if not where they meet.
2. From above, the sides of the shank lead to a wide stem, which then tapers to the button. For this pipe, I'm not a fan of the effect. I think the shape would be better served with straight lines from the button to the shank/bowl junction.
3. How wide is the button on this pipe? It appears that it could be much more narrow.
4. The stem should get thinner much faster. Applying #1 in this list will help achieve that.
5. There are scratches on the ridge of the top of the button.
The second pipe:
1. A longer stem would likely give the pipe more overall flow and balance. I bet it would also make the pipe look larger.
2. While it's great the this stem gets thin quickly after the saddle, it should get thinner more slowly. Look at high end maker's pipes. There is often a gentle slope from the saddle into the stem, providing an elegant transition. This applies to the sides of the stem's taper as well. From the top, the stem looks pinched at the saddle.
3. It looks like you intended to flare the shank into the stem, but the flare on the top of the saddle straightens out and curves slightly down. A flare like that is tough to achieve on a shape like this where the space between the bowl and top line of the shank is minimal.
Overall, you did good work on these pipes. The shaping looks good and you maintained the integrity of most of the lines on both even though they are rusticated. Personally, I'm not a fan of the rustication, but I'm a tough sell on rustication anyway, even when I've been forced to do it.
Hope this helps!
::pays Ernie his royalties::
