i am trying to get this color on m'y pipe...
and i dont know , how...
and how it get so smooth ? does he use shellac ?
thanks !!

and for this one to ..
Yup. Or something close to it.wisemanpipes wrote:that ikebana looks to have a yellow water based top stain, probably tan (as Huber said) as the undercoat, sanded back
I usually "sand back" with the trip wheel when the shape doesn't have any hard lines, and also when I don't mind bleeding (as in not a high contrast).mcgregorpipes wrote:you would apply stain, then buff using rouge compound, then apply more stain? interesting i thought buffing with tripoli glossed the surface over too much for subsequent stain to soak in.
That was the procedure I use for that particular stuff, in that particular color. Antique Amber, #5030. It's insanely concentrated, and used straight will get through/past any glossing. Feibing's and related can't be handled that way.mcgregorpipes wrote:you would apply stain, then buff using rouge compound, then apply more stain? interesting i thought buffing with tripoli glossed the surface over too much for subsequent stain to soak in so i've always used some dull 400 or 600 grit to hand sand in between coats. never used rouge compound just brown trip and white diamond.
what is this "glossing" your talking about. ive never had glossing before when Ive applied a top coat...wisemanpipes wrote:[quote="LatakiaLover It's insanely concentrated, and used straight will get through/past any glossing. Feibing's and related can't be handled that way.
A large part of my day is spent untangling terminology... it's my go toLatakiaLover wrote:Trying to untangle terminology and techniques at this point would be more work that it's worth.
Sorry Evan, but this is inaccurate. I do all my contrast stains this way.wisemanpipes wrote:using a buffing wheel is just inaccurate to create high contrast...
This technique definitely CAN work for contrast staining. However, you often will run into issues with keeping a consistent stain around hard edges. Also, depending on your finishing technique, the added grease from the compound can also be an issue. It depends. For me personally I prefer the control I have with 800 and 1000 grit sandpapers.UberHuberMan wrote:Sorry Evan, but this is inaccurate. I do all my contrast stains this way.wisemanpipes wrote:using a buffing wheel is just inaccurate to create high contrast...
I think Micah covered them. When you first start doing it, you're liable to get inconsistent results especially towards hard edges. It does darken up your tripoli wheel, but I haven't had any issues with the color transferring to lighter pipes. Maybe I've been lucky.mcgregorpipes wrote:is there any downside to sanding back black or dark brown on your trip wheel? thinking this would turn the wheel into a black paint roller
i've only done a few contrast stains, my procedure was stain black a couple times sanding back with 400 or 600 grit abranet on a soft sanding wheel, then top stain sanded back by hand carefully, 1 lb cut shellac wiped off before it dried to set stain then buff. you're still sanding the dark color or are you sanding up to finished grit then buffing in between top coats?
i might not make 2000 pipes a year but i'm an efficiency junky and some days hand sanding makes me want to build a "hand sanding" machine
It is very easy to over buff and get the wavy-surface, Peterson effect. Doesnt' really matter how you get the result though, just as long as you can do it quickly and well.mcgregorpipes wrote:is there any downside to sanding back black or dark brown on your trip wheel?
I did once. Ernie didn't like it.BobR wrote:
Anyone here use orange?