The ultimate turning tool

[pipedreamer]

I must have got one of the good sets, as mine work well on anything. Talk about more room, WOW! Chris did you talk to them on the phone? I watch the BBC often and am learning this English steady on chap! I'm off for a spot of tea mate!

[caskwith]

Oh it works well enough but just not as good for facing as my HSS tools.

Edge retention is excellent, been using it 3 months straight now for stem roughing and it is still razor sharp so very pleased there. I think I'll buy more tips for future use on stems, my other turning tools continue to be better for their specific jobs though.

[RDPowell]

Really guys, all I did was Google DCGT and found it, easy, peasey, Japanessey.

[caskwith]

Really guys, all I did was Google DCGT and found it, easy, peasey, Japanessey.

My tips were made in Germany actually

[pipedreamer]

RD, Just appreciate your effort on our behalf! Mine are German also. Just curious , how much over hang are you using?

[caskwith]

RD, Just appreciate your effort on our behalf! Mine are German also. Just curious , how much over hang are you using?

Me? About 15mm or so, I only ever use as much protrusion as needed to safely use the tool.

[pipedreamer]

Thanks Chris!!!!!!

[ToddJohnson]

I've had these for years, but I only use them to turn metal. I can't imagine a reason for using them on briar or ebonite, but that doesn't mean there isn't one, I suppose.

I grind zero relief tools out of German or American HSS and "sharpen" them with a handheld diamond hone. This takes about 5 seconds. Every 10 or so mouthpieces I put a new edge on them with the fine (slow speed) bench grinder. If you're facing or shaping ebonite (or briar for that matter) with a radius so small as to be more or less a "point," then "you're doing it wrong." You want a perfect (and fairly large) radius so that, theoretically, there's only one point of contact with the finished surface, there's no trailing edge, and the leading edge is pushing material out of the way that will not be present when you finish your cut. This also creates enough tool engagement on the leading edge of the radius to minimize deflection and create a cleaner cut at the "apex." The ideal scenario for briar and ebonite would be to have an indexed set of perfectly circular cutters in various diameters. If you're cutting integral tenons, you just want to make the radius as large as you possibly can without having a 3 mil deep countersink around your mortise.

TJ

[RDPowell]

RD, Just appreciate your effort on our behalf! Mine are German also. Just curious , how much over hang are you using?

Yeah, yeah I get it. I'm not real sure about what you mean by over hang, suffered enough hang overs in my day to have a few though.
But, if you mean how much bit is sticking out from the tool post I'd say maybe about a 3rd, 1/2" to 5/8's I reckon. Why? Is this another inside joke I'm not getting? BTW, I'm not using these as of yet but, would certainly like to giv'em a try if there as nice as what is said about them.

[PremalChheda]

I am not sure how it keeps happening, but third pcd bit just got chipped. I am going back to HSS.

[oklahoma red]

I am not sure how it keeps happening, but third pcd bit just got chipped. I am going back to HSS.

Tell Jesse to quit picking his teeth with them.

[pipedreamer]

Todd, we are just using them on projects where we have trouble getting in. I know Chris and myself use HSS for turnig Pipe related things. I do agree with the circular concept you mention and use such a tool for wood turning bowls etc.With these I can sand at a much higher grit to start. These tools were purchased to turn metal and I believe Chris is using them for the same reason and to rough out things as I have found to be valuable at times.Thankyou for your input as it is appreciated as well. John!