Hello everyone, I've been reading and searching about how to stamp your pipes. Today when stamping my latest pipe in the way I've been doing it. The bowl cracked! I use a stamp that must be hit with a hammer. I guess it had to happen sooner or later because I insert a wooden dowel in the chamber to keep it from moving when I hit the bottom with the stamp and hammer. My question is what is the best way to get better results. Thanks in advance!
Don't do that ! Just hold the pipe firmly in one hand, and press the stamp into the wood as hard as you can and use a small rocking motion to roll the stamp into the wood.
Alden wrote:Don't do that ! Just hold the pipe firmly in one hand, and press the stamp into the wood as hard as you can and use a small rocking motion to roll the stamp into the wood.
When in the process is the most appropriate and effective time to stamp?
I assume sometime after sanding and before final buffing. I recently received my stamp, and I am about to complete a couple of pipes. I would like to proceed with knowledge, not the trial and error method.
RobEsArt wrote:When in the process is the most appropriate and effective time to stamp?
I assume sometime after sanding and before final buffing. I recently received my stamp, and I am about to complete a couple of pipes. I would like to proceed with knowledge, not the trial and error method.
Thank you.
Rob
I always stamp right before applying the stain and buffing so the surface is not too slippery. That's just me, I don't know if everyone does.
RobEsArt wrote:When in the process is the most appropriate and effective time to stamp?
Stamping is essentially the very last thing you do. If you stain or buff after you stamp, you'll inevitably get stain or compound inside the stamp. Ryan's (Alden's) suggestion above is the way most people do it, but it will take some practice. I would recommend you take a new block, sand one side smooth and practice stamping it until you get a consistent impression.
If you have a choice of using that hammer again, resist. There are lots of was to stamp a pipe. A hammer striking a stamp is not one of them. Stamp companies sometimes say "strike end of stamp with mallet", which is fine for big flat surfaces... not pipes.
If you are having trouble getting a good impression on pipes with your stamp try warming the stamp, not too hot, just warm enough that you need to wear a glove works well.
caskwith wrote:If you are having trouble getting a good impression on pipes with your stamp try warming the stamp, not too hot, just warm enough that you need to wear a glove works well.
caskwith wrote:If you are having trouble getting a good impression on pipes with your stamp try warming the stamp, not too hot, just warm enough that you need to wear a glove works well.
Gloves? That's for sissy's.
Says the guy with a permanent burn between his fingers.
I use hot air gun on max mode to warm my stamp. About one minute.
Warm stamp works without force. But it can injure pipe if warmed too much, so i use the piece of polished briar to test before marking pipe.
Pipe is completely done, stamping is the last procedure. But carnauba wax goes later.
I've seen the presses used by factories for stamping in some videos, and since I already own one of these, I wonder if it could be easily rigged to apply a stamp and allow for the rocking motion.
I use a stamp that must be hit with a hammer. I guess it had to happen sooner or later because I insert a wooden dowel in the chamber to keep it from moving when I hit the bottom with the stamp and hammer. My question is what is the best way to get better results. Thanks in advance!
Great stuff!