Ok #13 a redo of the last one
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Ok #13 a redo of the last one
So I got a commission to do a pipe very similar to my last one except with green Cumberland this time, this gave me a chance to try and use the advice I got from you guys to improve. What do you think?
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Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
I'm not qualified to do any sort of critique but I do think it's a great looking pipe.
Rodney
Rodney
- sandahlpipe
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Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
It does look much improved over the last one.
A couple of things to point out from me:
1. There appears to be a slight gap between shank and stem as the light breaks in some of the pictures. It's hard to tell whether you just forgot to push the stem in all the way or whether there is indeed a gap.
2. The saddle itself is good, but I would suggest either moving it closer to the shank extension or further apart. Closer would draw the focus more towards the shank extension itself while further away would duplicate the length of the shank extension.
3. The stem looks over bent, but I think the issue is actually that the shank comes into the bowl too high. I would "hang" the shank a bit lower in relation to the bowl. Either way, I think the stem bend doesn't follow the curve of the pipe.
These are fairly nit-picky tweaks. It seems you're getting to the place in pipe making where there's less to critique on the execution and more to learn in terms of artistic choices. There's plenty of latitude at this point to work in, but I'd say the big thing to focus on is to move from "This looks about right" to "This is precisely where I want the saddle, the stem bend, etc."
A couple of things to point out from me:
1. There appears to be a slight gap between shank and stem as the light breaks in some of the pictures. It's hard to tell whether you just forgot to push the stem in all the way or whether there is indeed a gap.
2. The saddle itself is good, but I would suggest either moving it closer to the shank extension or further apart. Closer would draw the focus more towards the shank extension itself while further away would duplicate the length of the shank extension.
3. The stem looks over bent, but I think the issue is actually that the shank comes into the bowl too high. I would "hang" the shank a bit lower in relation to the bowl. Either way, I think the stem bend doesn't follow the curve of the pipe.
These are fairly nit-picky tweaks. It seems you're getting to the place in pipe making where there's less to critique on the execution and more to learn in terms of artistic choices. There's plenty of latitude at this point to work in, but I'd say the big thing to focus on is to move from "This looks about right" to "This is precisely where I want the saddle, the stem bend, etc."
Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
Great improvement on the saddle. Great looking pipe. I'm still not a fan of the scoop, but that's just personal preference.
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
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Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
Alright thanks a lot sandhal.
1. I think it may have just not been pushed in all of the way because these were two turned surfaces and actually fit together really well, I'll have to remember to check that before pictures next time.
2. I see what you mean about the saddle it's kinda stuck in limbo there
3. Exactly sure what you mean here could you elaborate a little
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1. I think it may have just not been pushed in all of the way because these were two turned surfaces and actually fit together really well, I'll have to remember to check that before pictures next time.
2. I see what you mean about the saddle it's kinda stuck in limbo there
3. Exactly sure what you mean here could you elaborate a little
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- sandahlpipe
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Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
For #3, it's along the lines of this. Your shank turns the right direction off the bowl, but I think it would look nicer if you let the bottom line swoop a little lower than it does. The way you've got the shank, it makes the space between shank and bowl look tight. Dropping that shank a little lower makes the pipe feel more "open." If anything, we're talking about a couple of millimeters here, so it's a minor adjustment. It's worth thinking about the difference it makes to the overall composition more than something you did wrong.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10658
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10658
Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
cool to see them so close in time.
did you pick the green cumberland or did the buyer? It seems a bit much with the spalted maple and the green and that nice finish all together....again personal preference.
lovely
did you pick the green cumberland or did the buyer? It seems a bit much with the spalted maple and the green and that nice finish all together....again personal preference.
lovely
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Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
The buyer specified the green Cumberland. I thought the same thing but I actually like it better that the red for some reason, but that maybe because it's just my latest pipe. I always tend to like my latest one the most
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Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
Ok I see what you're saying just a little less if a bend I guess. I had the bend tighter in this one because I like to try and keep the grain on the shank perpendicular to the curve of the shank. I guess I need to visualize the end product better while I'm drawing according to the grain
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- baweaverpipes
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Re: Ok #13 a redo of the last one
I like the pipe, but have a couple of thoughts.
First, this has been covered and it's the bend.
The other is regarding the embellishment. I believe it would have been better to have the wood embellishment on the stem, followed by a wafer of matching Ebonite.
This way you can have the saddle thickness match that of the wafer.
To make Ebonite to Ebonite appear seamless is difficult. Ebonite to briar not so.
An example:
First, this has been covered and it's the bend.
The other is regarding the embellishment. I believe it would have been better to have the wood embellishment on the stem, followed by a wafer of matching Ebonite.
This way you can have the saddle thickness match that of the wafer.
To make Ebonite to Ebonite appear seamless is difficult. Ebonite to briar not so.
An example: