Ok, this is actually briar block 15 and first billiard that I think resembles one Don't baby me, I'm looking to keep moving forward and my feelings won't be hurt. I appreciate your time in providing feedback.
Specs:
Length: 6.00 in.
Weight: 1.75 oz.
Bowl Height: 2.00 in.
Chamber Depth: 1.80 in.
Chamber Diameter: 0.80 in.
Outside Diameter: 1.50 in.
Stem Material: Ebonite
Filter: None
Shape: Billiard
Things I've already identified that need improvement:
1. The line from the bottom of the bowl across the shank to stem is not sharp. It once was, but after cutting the stem a second time I got sloppy when I married up the stem and the shank.
2. The shank face stem connection is not as sharp as it should be, this again is due to trying to marry up the stem and shank on the second time I had to cut a stem for it.
3. The stain color washes out a bit too much close to where the shank and stem meet.
4. The button needs more attention and it was enlightening to me to get a clearer view of it once i put the pipe in my homegrown photo box and got a good picture of it.
5. Drilling was pretty dang good, but I think it could be more perfect
6. Turned out a little heavier than I like in a billiard
7. Containing the ebonite skink so the wife doesn't call the doctor
Things I thought turned out well:
1. I thought the forward cant of the bowl was good
2. I thought the wall thickness of the bowl was good.
3. Finish color and contrast plus grain turned out nicely
4. Overall shape and dimensions turned out ok
5. The curve where the shank meets the bowl turned out ok.
6. The drilling turned out well, but I think it can be even better.
My first Critique post - Billiard #1
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My first Critique post - Billiard #1
my mouth is the marketing department for the circus in my head
- sandahlpipe
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Re: My first Critique post - Billiard #1
The bowl/shank transition needs to be crisper on the top of the shank. The walls of the bowl are a bit too straight. You could take a bit more off the top 1/3 of the bowl and the bottom 1/3. If you're doming the rim, make a crisp line to indicate precisely where the rim starts and the bowl ends. The stem is a bit too blimpy. Hold a straight edge on the top and bottom of the stem and make sure it doesn't rock. It looks like the sides of the button protrude a bit beyond the blade of the stem. The sides of the bowl/shank transition appear to pinch a bit. Make the shank perfectly round all the way to the radius. You should be able to hold a straight edge along the sides (and top) of the shank and see it dead straight.
The stem sticks out because (a) the tenon is too long or (b) because there isn't an adequate countersink on the shank face or (c) because the stem shoulder isn't perfectly perpendicular to the tenon.
You also have some sanding scratches on the side of your shank. Getting rid of all sanding marks before the base coat will make a world of difference in the evenness of the stain. You can use thinned black stain to reveal the scratches, and clean the pipe with denatured alcohol before applying your stain.
You need good lighting when you're doing finish work on a pipe. Get yourself some daylight bulbs and a desk lamp directly over your work area and check up to the light often. I just use cheap Ikea positioning lamps clamped to the bench. The reason you notice the funnel during pictures is probably due to better photography lighting than work lighting.
The stem sticks out because (a) the tenon is too long or (b) because there isn't an adequate countersink on the shank face or (c) because the stem shoulder isn't perfectly perpendicular to the tenon.
You also have some sanding scratches on the side of your shank. Getting rid of all sanding marks before the base coat will make a world of difference in the evenness of the stain. You can use thinned black stain to reveal the scratches, and clean the pipe with denatured alcohol before applying your stain.
You need good lighting when you're doing finish work on a pipe. Get yourself some daylight bulbs and a desk lamp directly over your work area and check up to the light often. I just use cheap Ikea positioning lamps clamped to the bench. The reason you notice the funnel during pictures is probably due to better photography lighting than work lighting.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2018 8:10 pm
Re: My first Critique post - Billiard #1
Thank you so much!.. Very helpful feedback. I will work on these.
my mouth is the marketing department for the circus in my head
Re: My first Critique post - Billiard #1
In addition to Jeremiah’s remarks. I would add that the button should not extend laterally beyond the lateral sides of the stem. Check out a lot of stems.
DocAitch
DocAitch
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2018 8:10 pm
Re: My first Critique post - Billiard #1
thanks Doc, that makes sense and seems obvious now that you mention it.
my mouth is the marketing department for the circus in my head