KurtHuhn wrote:Step three is complete - neutralizing the reaction and fixing the contrast.
This is tannic acid from the homebrew supply store, and vinegar - applied in successive steps and allowed to react.
The pipe is now drying on the pegboard on the kitchen table, though I'm about to go stick it in the toaster oven to speed the drying process. Later on today, or possibly tomorrow morning depending on when it actually becomes dry, I'll buff it out and see what I'm left with.
I'm aiming for a dark contrast. If you're looking for the final finish to be jet black, I guess you would follow the same steps I did, but not buff the wood afterward. Use shellac to set the color, *then* buff - but I'm not sure.
If it's similar to what I've done, you'll likely be left with a very dark brown. It penetrates deeper than aniline dyes, though it is not black per se. But the good thing is that you won't need to set the color, which is now part of the wood. It's different enough from aniline that you can dye over it and retain your contrast, without the undercolor mixing with the top coat. Generally that top layer is so thick that it requires brown compounding and then 600 grit sanding just to get down to the point where you're seeing variance in the wood grain tones again.
I guess I've been doing this since, hmm, around 99-2000 or so. But at the risk of dampening the enthusiasm, I just don't bother that often. A few good coats of an attractive aniline color still gives a beautiful result instantly, without all the waiting for this application and then that application to dry, then fighting it all to get the contrast even. These days I save it for the odd really special piece that I want to have a genuinely unique look.
As for smoking performance, it should be just fine. It darkens up normally in use, but doesn't rub off with handling.
