Bscofield Wrote:
<It just looks bad stained. The stain applies real dense and the grain doesn't really show through it. All in all, I'm really unimpressed. >
While I haven't carved Cherry yet--but plan to--I understand it is similar to many woods that when stained turn blotchy and lose the effect of the grain. In those cases, there are only two options, of which only one is acceptable to pipe making. One is to use a preconditioner. In woodworking where the final finish will be a varnish, French polish, or such, you use a well thinned shellac over the whole piece to partial seal the super absorbant patches, then the grain stains fairly well. Can't use that for pipes.The second option is to test the block prior to carving for the likelihood of blotchy absorbtion. You might try sanding the outer surface of the blocks and wiping them with alcohol to see if you can spot the blotchiness. If you can, then you can't stain that block. There may be some that do not exhibit that effect. You can try your stain on a slice of that block prior to staining the finished pipe.
If you've ever tried to stain pine or hemlock without presealing partially, you get the same problem. Some woods just don't cooperate
It does take some time to shape and sand super-hard woods. I have sculpted in iron wood, and believe me, it is aptly named. I must say though, that I feel there is some magic in that, at least for me. I love the touch of hard wood. The hand can tell how hard it is by the slightest touch. It's a very strange feeling. Working with other woods does give one a keen appreciation of brair though doesn't it? If it weren't for that odd sandpit cropping up at inappropriate times that is.
John
