Cool idea for a larger draght hole

[Nick]

My buddy and I were talking about - of all things - pipes last night. Imagine that? Well he passed on a cool idea for getting a larger draught hole while maintaining a slim bit. The idea was this: First one heats up the button and stem (This presumes you're modifying an existing stem - if its a new pipe this would be skipped). One then would squeese the button laterally, making it fatter. Once it has cooled, you could drill a larger bit through it. After the new draught hole is drilled, the stem is reheated and flattened out to a slimmer profile. The area of the passage is still the same, only the shape has changed. There could be a few eddies created by the process, but I don't think they would be significant. The pressure and velocity of the flow should remin constant.

Haven't tried this yet, but I plan to soon.

[Nick]

Do I take it that you don't think it'd work?

Who knows. You might be right. I thought it was a pretty innovated idea.

[RadDavis]

Hi Nick,

It will work, but one thing you have to be aware of is the thickness of the bit on top & bottom of your smoke hole. If your new hole results in too thin walls where you clench, you'll have bite through problems.

I'd try it on a pipe you don't care about first.

Hope this helps,

Rad

[jeff]

There are definitely ways to create a more open draw from the stem, but your method is unique. I'd say go ahead and try it.

But, conventional wisdom on this matter has some other opinions. Try a 5/32 taper bit and then widen the last 3/4" to the button with a 1mm or 1/16 drill bit in a fan pattern. (I hope you follow this.) You can actually work it so that you have a consistent diameter throughout and a very open draw as a consequence. All of the high grade pipes that I have seen utilize some derivative of this procedure.

But, hey, I say grab a cheap stem, marshal your efforts and bend that button! Maybe you will be able to pioneer a new school of stem drilling that thumbs its nose at convensional wisdom! Good luck!

Jeff

[ToddJohnson]

ArtGuy and I prefer the "blunderbuss airway." It's a bit unconventional, but boy does it sound good.

Todd

[Nick]

Thanks Random.

Blunderbuss airway? I like the sound of it!! How about Sousaphone airway? Or freight train airway?

Too much fun. I was going to give it a try last night, but after I put the kiddos to bed, I was just beat. Maybe tonight or this weekend.

I definatly need to get myself a tapered drill bit. Wish Lowes carried them. I'm like always there.

[ToddJohnson]

Thanks Random.

Blunderbuss airway? I like the sound of it!! How about Sousaphone airway? Or freight train airway?

Too much fun. I was going to give it a try last night, but after I put the kiddos to bed, I was just beat. Maybe tonight or this weekend.

I definatly need to get myself a tapered drill bit. Wish Lowes carried them. I'm like always there.

Hey Nick,

The "blunderbuss airway" is a concept that has not yet been fully developed. ArtGuy and I were chatting yesterday and it came up that the "Blunderbuss" is a new shape he's working on. At this point, we decided that "blunderbuss" had such a ring to it that we would use it as often as possible. Hence the blunderbuss airway.

As far as tapered bits go, Lowes should have them. I believe I picked mine up at Lowes in B'ham. Dewalt sells them in packs of 3, and they're actually for deck screws. You can probably find them in the "tool corral" area. If not, I'm sure you can pick them up online.

BTW, your concept is not entirely unconventional. Occasionally guys will give the button a bit of a squeeze just to flatten it out a bit. I don't like this idea for structural reasons, but opening it first, drilling it, and then letting it return to its original shape may change things entirely. Who knows? Give it a shot.

Todd

[KurtHuhn]

As far as tapered bits go, Lowes should have them. I believe I picked mine up at Lowes in B'ham. Dewalt sells them in packs of 3, and they're actually for deck screws. You can probably find them in the "tool corral" area. If not, I'm sure you can pick them up online.Todd

Almost all tapered drill bits are actually manufactured by Fuller, and are available from an outfit here in Rhode Island:
http://www.bitsnbores.com

When sold in Lowes and Home Depot they sometimes (usually?) have a countersink or stop collar on them, so you have to look closely. If you get it from Bit N Bores, you can choose your length, up to 8" long. Very helpful for those rare times you need to make a churchwarden.

[Nick]

I pickd one up last night at woodcrafters. Looks pretty cool.

You know, one could actually use a tapered bit to drill from the button side and create that blunderbuss airway.

Additionally, I wanna see John's new shape! Sounds very Piratical. Arrrggh!

Anyone else here celebrate "Talk like a Pirate" day? this year?

[ToddJohnson]

I pickd one up last night at woodcrafters. Looks pretty cool.

You know, one could actually use a tapered bit to drill from the button side and create that blunderbuss airway.

Additionally, I wanna see John's new shape! Sounds very Piratical. Arrrggh!

Anyone else here celebrate "Talk like a Pirate" day? this year?

Hey Nick,

The tapered bit is actually for drilling from the tenon end. One reason you really don't want to open up the bit end into a "trumpet" shape is bit thickness. You can easily end up with a bit too thick to be held comfortably between the teeth. I do always take off any hard edges around the bit opening--much like taking a miniature router with a round-over bit to the oval shaped hole--but otherwise, all the flair is horizontal. This will continue to deliver the same volume of airflow while maintaining a nice thin comfortable bit. Grab some stock and practice up. Find a method you think works well--just keep the bit thin.

Todd

[TreverT]

This is, I think, one of those frequent ideas that virtually every new pipe carver has and believes is the coolest new idea ever My friend Paul Tatum suggested this to me back in 98 or so, and we found out fast why you don't see this explained and suggested in pipemaking forums! While the whole idea of heating and squishing sounds logical, in practice it is virtually impossible to pull off. Vulcanite doesn't stretch in the way needed, and acrylic is way too brittle for such deformations. I played with the idea for a good while and succeeded mainly in splitting several bit ends, so if you try this out, be warned...

[stdly]

If I understand could the draft hole at the mouth piece not be slotted (tapered) further back with a 1/16 cutter horizontally before bending to achieve the same affect with more or equal draft?

[KurtHuhn]

Anyone else here celebrate "Talk like a Pirate" day? this year?

Yarrr! Every day be talk like a pirate day 'round here ye swab!!

[Nick]

Aaarrgh! Ya land lubber.

Stdly, yea, I think that it probably could. And it'd probably be safer on the stem too.

Trever: Thanks for the note. Too funny that this is one of those recurring innovations doomed to cause havok. On the otherhand, at least I feel like I'm in good company.

[KurtHuhn]

Aaarrgh! Ya land lubber.

Yarrr! Last I looked, twas me what was livin' in a seaport town, ye parrot's hindquarters....

Stdly, yea, I think that it probably could. And it'd probably be safer on the stem too.

Ahem, er... yes. Back on topic.

I use a 1/16" drill bit to widen the draught hole into a flattened funnel shape on every stem I make - then I flare the outlet slightly. The slot isn't so much a slot as a smoke spreader. It's very important to avoid the hot stream of compressed smoke onto a concentrated point on the tongue.

[Nick]

Yarrr! Last I looked, twas me what was livin' in a seaport town, ye parrot's hindquarters....

That be cuz I be in hidin, ya scurvy bildge rat! An b'sides, dem Buckeyes are da finest buch o' mangy sea hands a cap'n could want

Arrr...that an me benefits at me job is hard ta turn down..arrrggh

Kurt, I gotta admit the button on the pipe of yours I have is awesome. A bit thick, but the draw can't be beat.