pipemakersforum.com

I know that most of you have advised us noobs to avoid complicated stuff and stick to the basics, but I have had this design in my head for a while and had a small block that was perfect for it so after finishing my last pipe, I started messing around with this one and haven't been able to put it down since. I really enjoy the challenge of working with bamboo, but as you can see, I'm a ways from mastering the skill. I can't seem to get the ebonite sanded down flush without sanding through the dark outer layer of the bamboo. The irregular shape and subtle curvatures of the bamboo are also causing me some headaches. In the picture of the bottom of the pipe, you can see that the stem is trailing off to one side a little. I really thought I had everything aligned just right until I made the stem and put it on. I also can't seem to figure out how to get the little divots polished up as well as everything else. I'm guessing that I wasn't able to sand them as well as the rest and hence the difference in luster. Regardless, this was a fun pipe to make and I'm pretty proud of it, but please point out everything that I'm missing so the next one will be better. Thanks in advance!

Also, any photography advice is welcome as well... I can't get the color right at all. Everything is coming out really yellow. I'm including a pic I took at the shop to give a better representation of the color.

I think I see a slight gap between stem and shank. But only on one side of the stem. Fixing that will make sanding a little easier. The best advice I have for sanding stems is to patiently wet sand to as high a grit as you can. I go to 2000 grit and my stem takes me about 6 hours without having any creases.

As for lighting, use as much light as you can, and use full-spectrum bulbs. You can also putz around with white balance to compensate for incandescent light, but you get the true colors from full spectrum bulbs. I have a lightbox and 3 bulbs just for the box plus my camera flash. Others use natural light, which is also a good option if you can get it.

I love this pipe. Well done.

You have made a beautiful pipe,the stem is well matched.

Thank guys!

I appreciate the lighting and sanding tips Jeramiah. I think I'll stick to outdoors shots for now till I can fix up a better rig.

Well done! I think it is damn decent.
Only thing that messes with my eye is the saddle that could have been a tad longer, to match the bowl to 1st knuckle measurement.
Btw, I sand my stems to 600. No need to go finer, tripoli is 400 (or 500, depending on type) grit in any case. You'll be wasting your time.

Charl wrote: Btw, I sand my stems to 600. No need to go finer, tripoli is 400 (or 500, depending on type) grit in any case. You'll be wasting your time.

I think Tripoli is closer to 1000, but I could be wrong. I sand to 2000 so I can get a perfect button and not round over the edges with tripoli. Using tripoli too early will make wavy lines in the stem. I'm thinking to skip over tripoli altogether though, since white diamond is really all that's needed with 2000 grit. And after about 400 grit should be wet sanding.

I recently switched to 1200 grit as a final on stems. I'm not sure what grit red and white compound are, but I'm definitely getting a better finish than when i buffed at 600 grit.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

Solomon_pipes wrote:I recently switched to 1200 grit as a final on stems. I'm not sure what grit red and white compound are, but I'm definitely getting a better finish than when i buffed at 600 grit.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

I think that's because Tripoli doesn't just remove material, it fills in micro pores. When the compound wears off, you are left with a dull surface. The last few grits go quick if you've sanded properly to 600 grit.

Charl wrote:Well done! I think it is damn decent.
Only thing that messes with my eye is the saddle that could have been a tad longer, to match the bowl to 1st knuckle measurement.
Btw, I sand my stems to 600. No need to go finer, tripoli is 400 (or 500, depending on type) grit in any case. You'll be wasting your time.

Thanks for the kind words! I was wondering if someone would mention the stem length. I felt like it might be a little short as well. The proportions for bamboo shank pipes seems to give me problems. So, would you have made the entire stem longer or just pushed the saddle back closer to the shank?

I'm no specialist with bamboo, other people that know more than me might chime in, but I would reckon longer stem with saddle longer as well.
As an aside, personally I try to keep the distance on the shank side and the stem side of the bamboo the same. It makes it easier for me to work out proportions. But that's me.

It depends on the pipe. I saw a pipe the other day on smoking pipes.com that had one knuckle and it was awesome. I can't remember the carvers name. Look at a lot of pictures and you will get the idea.The carver is Nate King, He has a very good eye. Sorry, I'm trying to file a stem and catch up on the forum at the same time.The aluminum file triggered my memory.

Beautiful!!!

Sent from my HTC0P3P7 using Tapatalk

Thanks, man!