pipemakersforum.com

I managed to get the same black effect with Tea. First attempt with strong brewed tea was so-so, it was mainly a grey. I then used a whole box of Black tea and boiled it down until it was gritty. This gave me enough tannin for the reaction with vinegar + iron. It turned black a few seconds after the...

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the steam tip. I never considered it. I'll give it a go in the shop tomorrow.

KurtHuhn wrote:Personally I would sand it back, redo the stain, and re-stamp it. Assuming that you're going to change colors anyway. If you don't sand that one area, it's going to look very different from the rest of the pipe.

Suppose you are right, thanks Kurt

I just finished a pipe buffed waxed and all, but the stain job is uninspiring. Whats the best way to strip it? usually I'd just tand it down but I would prefer not to touch the stamp, as sanding on it will diminish the quality (My best stamp job yet!) I'm guessing that I should tape over the stamp a...

I've been doing some research on this process and I came up with this google book on natural dyes. Specifically pg 40-42. It talks about both copper and iron. Unfortunately the photos do not show up.
Google Book

Bah , I thought it was something different. I usually just hit the alcohol stain with my lighter to dry it! I use some acid for my Gus staining and that I'll hit with a flame to turn it black, Kinda like tannic acid, thought this might be similar.

Forgive me if this has been posted before but I took special interest in petersons staining process. It's in the earlier part of the video but they are brushing the stain on then holding it over the flame so "the stain bonds into the wood". Any ideas whats happening here? http://www.peters...

Great info Kurt. I've never considered stabilizing. Very good explanation of the process!

That pipe looks like it has some shock absorption! I'll never break a shank again!

I've been hand cutting stems for awhile and I've never been to happy about using a drill bit to smear open the airway. In the end it comes out ok, but it always seems to be thicker then I would like. Just for kicks, I tried to just the slot by hand. I used the dremel saw bit to give myself a guide. ...

If this has already been shared here, I apologize. But I thought you guys might find this article interesting. It's from a popular science feb 1949 edition on stems.

http://books.google.com/books?id=pCQDAA ... q=&f=false

If I get a bad slit with a 1/16 bit I'll heat it and smash it down a little. Works like a charm.

Wow you really took some time on that. It looks beautiful!

I used this method on a Dublin which gave me a lot of room to work on the shank. Good point Kurt, I can't see how this would really help on the bent. I also have an issue with a tool rest on my lathe. It's a big metal lathe which leaves me very little room for a tool rest chucked up into the tool ca...

Hey guys, I have started using Derlin recently and I must say that I'm very impressed with the ease of getting perfect tenon mortise fit. I finally had a chance to start another pipe yesterday and decided to put the stem blank into the mortise and turn the shank and stem together. I was unable to do...

Nicely done Kurt! It's much much faster!

Thank you

Thanks Jeff. I love the modified saw blade idea.

Great Video Jeff, Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for sharing. There are some really good ideas used in that video. (I believe you are referring to the one in the photo gallery)

I've found it much easier to put some square stock in the tool carriage and use a gouge/skew to do it by hand.