Etude #8, Calabash Interpretation

sethile · Post by **sethile** » Fri Apr 14, 2006 10:43 pm

I think I turned a corner on this one... Thanks to all the help in stummel thread on drilling and alignment issues and some other help here on the forum, the boring and related mechanics turned out much better (nearly perfect), and I really like the shape. Still some symmetry issues, but much better overall, and I managed my first hand cut stem:

Specs in inches: The Bowl is 2.5 tail, and 1.5 in diameter at the rim flare, 1.40 just under the flare, and tapers down to 1.3 just above the shank. The chamber is .75 by 2.2 deep. The overall length is 6.25.

I like the color and rustification. This is using the same technique I used on #5 as described by Tyler Lane and originally from Brian Ruthenberg. This time I lightly sanded afterward to try to get more highlights and a slightly nicer feel to it. I like it a lot better this time, and this dye worked well with it (a combination of Red Mahogany and Dark Brown Tandy Pro Leather Dyes).

This is my first hand cut stem. It's fashioned from a section of Lucite rod from Mark Tinsky of American Smoking Pipe Co: http://www.amsmoke.com/

The R 2 1/2 ebauchon I used for the stummel was also from Mark (he's excellent source of briar, and a fantastic pipemaker!). In the future I'll be using German Ebonite or Cumberland, although I'm not opposed to doing more with Lucite. I fashioned the tenon from Delrin. The insert is Paduack, and that is it's natural color.

Here are pic of the stem:

The angle on this pic is a bit odd. The stem is actually pretty good in terms of symmetry and the overall shape is what I was after but is just a bit thicker at the bit. It thins to about .169 at it's thinnest, and the bit end is .25 in the center.

I'd have gone thinner, but I got a little carried away with the dremel tool when opening and widening the end of the air passage and was reluctant to try to go any thinner for fear of sanding into it. All in all It's still reasonably comfortable and clinches well. I had issues due to how hard the Lucite is (was very strange to drill, shape and sand). I'll do better next time. Lots of refinements needed on future stems, but overall I'm satisfied with this as my first one hand cut.

Well, it's far from perfect, but this is the first of my efforts I'm tempted to try to sign, and I may give that a go. I think I'll use my initials, year, and the Etude #. If if don't destroy the pipe in the process I'll post a pic of that later. I'll try to make refinements on this basic shape for the next version of it, which I hope to do right away. I like this shape well enough to be thinking of using it as the start of my future Shapes Catalog.

Tear it up folks... I'm here to learn! Thanks so much for all the help and encouragement. You guys are awesome!

Heinz_D · Post by **Heinz_D** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 4:52 am

Great job! It's a very, very nice pipe! I can't see any symmetry issues on the pics, so is it worse to speak about it?

Very good stemwork too. Isn't it very satisfying to cut stems by yourself?!

Congratulations again! I'm very impressed!

Greetings from Germany,

Heinz_D

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 9:39 am

Very nice pipe Scott! Fantastic stem for your first effort. I like the shape very much. And the rustication is nice too. Something I have yet to master, or even come close to making it look the way I want. The symmetry issues you speak of must be minimal, the last pic you posted looks like there might be a slight difference in taper around the bowl. But it is minimal, and the pipe looks great! A little thinner on the sides of the stem right behind the button will make the stem look thinner.

Excellent pipe!
David

marks · Post by **marks** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:37 am

Not bad at all. Nice symmetry, nice shape, and very nice effort on your first hand cut stem.

On your button, I will pass along something that Brian Ruthenburg told me a couple of years ago in Richmond. Take a file that has 90 degree corners, and work the area behind the button to make the joint between the stem and button crisp. It also gives you a very flat back to the button and a crisp edge for the teeth, for clenchers.

It's a very subtle detail, but one that makes a difference. I do this as the first step after cutting the stem down on the belt sander. That way, I can use the unaltered diameter of the unshaped button (it should still be the same diameter as the rod prior to cutting down) to gauge my evenness on the top and bottom of the airway, and to gauge that the top and bottom back of the button are even.

Nice job.

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 12:06 pm

marks wrote:On your button, I will pass along something that Brian Ruthenburg told me a couple of years ago in Richmond. Take a file that has 90 degree corners, and work the area behind the button to make the joint between the stem and button crisp. It also gives you a very flat back to the button and a crisp edge for the teeth, for clenchers.

Oops, sorry Scott, i was going to mention the button in my post but forgot. As a "hands free" smoker, I usually stick the pipe in my teeth, light it and forget about it(the pipe, not the tobacco) until no more smoke. I like the flow/shape of the stem and button, but my first thought was it might be too rounded for my smoking style.

David

sethile · Post by **sethile** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:32 pm

Thanks all!
Yes, the rounding on the button on this had me alarmed too, but it still clinches well. Any more rounding and I'd have been sunk though, that's for sure... I'm a clincher sometimes, like right now, while typing, but also like holding some. I have one beloved GBD Virgin with a worn button (careless buffing) that drives me nuts! Even when I'm not clinching I like knowing I can... Just feels bad on the teeth to not feel that edge and know you have the option.

Great tip on the Brian Ruthenburg file technique, Marks, thanks! That will really help on the next one. This forum is really great. It's like having access to a round the clock workshop full of experts and fellow students!

sethile · Post by **sethile** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 5:46 pm

Happy Easter!
I'd heard stamping pipes with these little figures was tough, and thought I was prepared, but it was much tougher than I thought! In fact, I messed it up the first time, sanded and tried again. :boohoo: Not at all happy with this, but afraid to try anything more with it:

The first time I tried doing it on the drill press with a jig I'd seen mentioned here on the forum. The S above was also done on the jig. Didn't cut in as well because I couldn't rock the stamp. Guess I need to make up a better jig as it didn't help with alignment either. I just ended up using the press to hold the stamps and just pressed the pipe up into it b y hand. I was so afraid of stamping the second time I was shaking a little!

Almost as bad as taking the first plunge when doing the rustification! 8O

flix · Post by **flix** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:05 am

Hi Scott,

I like it, including the stamping. I've seen much worse stamping on famous name pipes, so it's fine...

One thing that seems a little odd is what appears to be a crack in the "Paduack" extension. What is that?

--Mike

sethile · Post by **sethile** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:30 am

Thanks Mike!
Yes, that does look like a crack, but it's not. Paduak has a few strands of long porus grain running through it, in addition to the more shallow figured grain (sort of like mahagany only longer). What looks like a crack is actually grain. It's less distracting in person, but still looks a bit like a crack until you inspect it closely, I think in large part because of its location. It could be alarming to a recipient, so I shoudl either find sections without that in the future, or abondon trying to use it for inserts.

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:39 pm

Scott,

When stamping with individual letter stamps I would not recommend using a drill press. I stamped this way for my first 50 pipes and had very good success. The key is good bracing and good lighting. Find a brace, cover it with leather or padding of some sort to prevent scratching the pipe, bring a light close so that you can see the pipe and stamping surfaces at the same time. Then carefully watch the stamp as you position it and apply pressure by hand.

Otherwise, the pipe looks very good. I'm quite impressed with the shape. The rustication is great, the lines are quite good, and the stem work looks very good, especially considering how few pipes you've made. Good luck as you continue!

Jeff

sethile · Post by **sethile** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:19 pm

Jeff, thanks for the stamping tips! That sounds like it will work better than what I did.

First Smoke Test Report! Just finished a wonderful bowl of Ratray's Marlin Flake. Fantastic! This is by far the best smoker I've made, and the only one that took well to a Virginia flake. I'm stoked! Smoked nice and cool, both to the touch, and not a hint of tongue bit, likely due to the longish stem. It was about average for me in terms moisture. Not much at all, but a hint of a girgle at two points, and I used two pipe cleaners. Not as good as I had hoped, but about average for me with the Marlin Flake. Excellent flavor and very smooth. All in all a very good experience. Nice long smoke too. About 1 1/2 hours, which is much longer than I had thought, and much longer than usual for me with a pipe this size. It seemed to take well to being smoked slowly.

I'm hoping I can eliminate the little bit of moisture and slight hint of gurgle by taking more care to precisley match the airways. I think there is a little restriction in the airway between the shank and Delrin, and then again between the Delrin and stem. Next time I will glue the undrilled Delrin into the stem and drill the Delrin and stem all as one unit. And I'll also use a tapperd 5/32 drill that should match better with my 5/32 air way in the stummel. I'll drill with the tappered bit to the last 1/2" or so of the stem, and I'll do that with 1/16" drill or maybe 1mm if I get brave enough.

All in all, very encouraging, and a thouroughly enjoyabe smoke!