question about moisture
question about moisture
I have a question about moisture...
I have some of my own pipes, as we all do. A few favorites in the bunch. I smoke these with regularity. Depending on the tobacco that I'm smoking sometimes I need to use a pipe cleaner due to moisture, with other tobaccos I do not. How do I determine if this is an engineering problem? Is ANY moisture bad? If not, what's excessive and what's acceptable?
Thanks in advance fellas!
I have some of my own pipes, as we all do. A few favorites in the bunch. I smoke these with regularity. Depending on the tobacco that I'm smoking sometimes I need to use a pipe cleaner due to moisture, with other tobaccos I do not. How do I determine if this is an engineering problem? Is ANY moisture bad? If not, what's excessive and what's acceptable?
Thanks in advance fellas!
I have the same issue with dry tobacco in a poker that I made. I don't think it's mechanics, though. The draft hole is 5/32 and the stem's hole was made with a tapered 5/32 bit. The moisture seems to collect in the first 1/4" between the bottom of the tobacco chamber and the draft hole. Nothing seems to be wrong with the pipe, it just gurgles after around a 1/3 bowl of anything I smoke. Weird...
So it might be wet wood? You would think that after a couple of smokes the wood would dry out.
I'm with you on this puzzle!
--Michael
So it might be wet wood? You would think that after a couple of smokes the wood would dry out.
I'm with you on this puzzle!
--Michael
Interestingly, the shape of the tobacco chamber can play a role in this. A very tapered shallow V shaped chamber will collect moisture more than a U shaped one.
I found this out with a stanwell. I actually redrilled the chamber and made it more of a U shape, though still conical, and the moisture problem went away.
I found this out with a stanwell. I actually redrilled the chamber and made it more of a U shape, though still conical, and the moisture problem went away.
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I have found that the last inch or two of the stem (the end that goes in your mouth), is VERY often a moisture creating problem. That would be where I started my troubleshooting.
I am not one who thinks wood acts as a big difference maker in the area of a dry smoke. I mostly believe its negative affects lie in the imparting of bad flavors if improperly cured.
Tyler
I am not one who thinks wood acts as a big difference maker in the area of a dry smoke. I mostly believe its negative affects lie in the imparting of bad flavors if improperly cured.
Tyler
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I'd look in the slit with a penlight and see that it was nice and smooth. I'd run a pipe cleaner in it from the tenon end and see if it snags on transitions near the button, and to see if the cleaner goes easily through.
If you think that is all good, I'd make sure the tenon is flush with the bottom of the mortise. I'd also make sure the end of the tenon is chamfered and smoothly tapers into the stem.
If all of that checks out, I'd check out the draught hole in the stummel doesn't have any obstructions. Not likely, but worth checking.
If all of that is good, then I suppose I try Joel's suggestion. Never messed with that, so I don't have any personal experience, but I'd be willing to try if all else fails.
On another note, is the tobacco that causes the problem pretty wet or gooey? Some tobaccos can just be too much for any pipe.
Tyler
If you think that is all good, I'd make sure the tenon is flush with the bottom of the mortise. I'd also make sure the end of the tenon is chamfered and smoothly tapers into the stem.
If all of that checks out, I'd check out the draught hole in the stummel doesn't have any obstructions. Not likely, but worth checking.
If all of that is good, then I suppose I try Joel's suggestion. Never messed with that, so I don't have any personal experience, but I'd be willing to try if all else fails.
On another note, is the tobacco that causes the problem pretty wet or gooey? Some tobaccos can just be too much for any pipe.
Tyler
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Thought of one other thing. Remove the stem and draw through it at varying rates. Does it wheeze? If so, I'd recommend getting out the needle files and trying to work on the transition from the taper to the slit.
Tyler
Tyler
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In addition to Tyler's recommendation of looking at the button with a penlight, I also recommend looking through the tenon end into the airway with a good light shining from the button area. This gives a very good view of the construction of the stem airway.
However, Ben, I think you may have provided the answer in the question when you said that some tobaccos smoke wet, some don't. If this is the case, my theory is that it is the tobacco that is causing the need to periodically use a pipe cleaner. Otherwise, you would have to use a pipe cleaner on every smoke with every tobacco.
However, Ben, I think you may have provided the answer in the question when you said that some tobaccos smoke wet, some don't. If this is the case, my theory is that it is the tobacco that is causing the need to periodically use a pipe cleaner. Otherwise, you would have to use a pipe cleaner on every smoke with every tobacco.
Tyler, Just for clarification for us hillbillies! Are you talking about chamfering the outside of the tenon? Or the end of the airway? I've read about chamfering the outside edge of the end of the tenon, but didn't see how that could help prevent moisture if the tenon is bottomed out in the mortise.Tyler wrote: If you think that is all good, I'd make sure the tenon is flush with the bottom of the mortise. I'd also make sure the end of the tenon is chamfered and smoothly tapers into the stem.
Tyler
In my experience, which is limited, moisture collecting in the airway close to the tobacco chamber doesn't always come from there, but collects there after being condensed somewhere in the mortise/tenon area or slightly above, and runs back down the airway.
I have similar problems with McClelland broken flake tobaccos, no matter how much I dry the darn things!
David
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Inside the tenon, not the outside.
This is particularly important for bent pipes that have a "smeared" draught hole.
This is particularly important for bent pipes that have a "smeared" draught hole.
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Thanks Tyler, I thought that was what you meant, but also thought I might be missing something! Somewhere in the tons of articles I've read about smoking qualities, there was a statement about chamfering the outside of the tenon. Their theory was that if the tenon wasn't tight to the bottom of the mortise, chamfering the edge of the tenon would allow the moisture to collect in that area and possibly reduce the chance of gurgling.Tyler wrote:Inside the tenon, not the outside.
This is particularly important for bent pipes that have a "smeared" draught hole.
David