Logan 200 10" lathe - am I getting a good deal ?!?

hollywood · Post by **hollywood** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:48 pm

Found a Logan Model 200 10" lathe and can go pick it up next weekend. Was supposedly purchased to set-up, but the owner already has a 618 and then uses a SB 13" at his work so he never put this one into use. Everything should work as it should. It runs on either 220 volt or 115 volt. I have all the change gears for it. It has a 1 1/2 x 8 spindle with Morse taper 3 headstock. It does come with all the extra gears(replacement?). It does not come with any tooling or chucks. Does have power cross feed. The stand is cast iron and has a chip tray. The covers for the pulleys are sitting on the stand. The motor has legs of it's own and it just hooks on to the lathe with a pin. It's $400. I'll put the pics of it here. Can you guys tell me if it sounds like a good investment? I can use all the help here I can get. THANKS!

LatakiaLover · Post by **LatakiaLover** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:56 pm

If only there was a board regular who knew somthing about buying and refurbing old lathes...

hollywood · Post by **hollywood** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:02 pm

LatakiaLover wrote:If only there was a board regular who knew somthing about buying and refurbing old lathes...

Where is he when you need him!?

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:31 am

Playing a concert in Youngstown. If it's all there and it runs, $400 is fine. Pretty good, in fact, verging on lucky. That's if it will run. If it's frozen or crashed, not such a good deal. Make sure the headstock spins freely and doesn't sound like a skateboard going down the road. Handles should turn, etc. Hard to tell condition of the ways from the pics, but you can tell from how the carriage goes down the ways as you traverse -- if it's tight down by the tailstock and tight right up next to the headstock but loose in the middle that means there's some wear, but it's not a DQ for pipe making. If the resistance is pretty even all the way that's good. All the handles turn? If you want, you can check the power feeds turning the leadscrew by hand.

Congratulations! Now you'll just need to pick up a gallon of kerosene on the way home, get a pile of rags, and after a few hours of work it will no longer make big black marks on your clothes when you merely walk into the same room.

hollywood · Post by **hollywood** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:05 am

Thanks Jack! I knew you would be here when you could!! I appreciate it.

I asked the seller to get some close-ups of the gearing, the carriage, and the motor. Also asked him about the spindle turning and such. Would hate to drive 5.5hrs to find it crashed.

Now to find the right cutting tools, drill chuck, and 4-jaw chuck. Want to be able to get it up and running within a week if at all possible.

If anybody has advise here or any extra stuff lying around ....

hollywood · Post by **hollywood** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:12 pm

I asked more questions and this is what I got back:

When you move the carriage, it is tight as you get toward the tail stock end. I always assumed that this was because the lathe was not bolted down and leveled and causing a bind in the bed.

The handles all turn ok. There is a tooth missing in the bull gear but it don't seem to hurt anything when you turn the head stock. When you engage the gears for the lead screw, it makes a little bit of sound when you rotate the head stock. It sounds like gears meshing to me.

The motor can run on either 115 volt at 11 amps or 220 volt at 5.5 amp. I have no idea if it works. The wires are hanging loose and I have to figure out how to hook it back up. There is a toggle switch that came with it too.
When I engage the lever for the cross feeds, everything seems to work.

The way you see the lathe in the photos is the way I bought it. I paid $400 for it. I have never hooked it up or tried to use it. I am taking classes in machine shop at the local tech school. My teacher told me that Logan is a great brand because it has a better type of bearings.

I also have a small Atlas 618 lathe that I use all the time but I wanted something for bigger projects.

It is what it is. It is a $400 lathe. If you are expecting a brand new lathe, this isn't the one for you. It needs to be cleaned up, repainted, leveled up and adjusted. As to accuracy, I don't know until it is put together.

I have a belt for it but it is old. Replacement belts are available on Ebay. It is a flat belt and has a pin that locks it together so that you don't have to take the head stock apart. The guy selling them says that you measure it and he will make one to fit it.

The old belt will probably last a long time. There are some extra gears that came with it. I don't know if they are all there or not.

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:19 pm

That's mostly true. The tooth missing on the bull gear would be a problem if you ever used back gear, which you won't. You may be able to pick one up on ebay. You'll do better at some point to put a rubber belt on, but that does mean pulling the spindle. Probably best to get it together and start using it, see what goes after that. I've got several 3-jaw chucks from old lathes, and perhaps an extra 4-jaw. You're really better off buying new, though -- old chucks are always worn and sprung.

hollywood · Post by **hollywood** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:44 pm

sweet! This is a done deal. Picking it up on Friday!!

And a bonus ...... they are NOT in Kansas City! It's in St. Louis!! Whoo Hoo! Just shaved 3-4 hours off the travel time and a bunch of gas money! I'll be in St. Louis anyway for the pipe show!!

Excuse me while I go do the happy dance!!

hollywood · Post by **hollywood** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 11:54 pm

well ... i am now officially dangerous! picked this up yesterday and will have her in my shop tomorrow morning. look out below!!

everything really looked better than expected. the only thing i'm uncertain of is the power/motor. should i set it up to run on 220?

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:45 am

If the motor can do 220V, I'd suggest using it. It won't make more power, but it will be a little more efficient.

hollywood · Post by **hollywood** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:10 am

thanks, Kurt. checked closer today; and it is set for 110. might run it that way for now, but getting a 220 line in place is an easily doable option.

here's a pick of it on my carport. going to give it a good cleaning out here and then set it up by the weekend. any suggestions on the best ways to remove all that old paint and grease without messing up the bearings and such?

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 1:26 am

I'd recommend kerosene or mineral spirits. It will take grease and loose paint off, and what it won't take I'd leave. Once you start removing paint it's a slippery slope. Next think you know it will be in little bits all over your garage. As much as possible, avoid removing the rust on the ways with sandpaper. Get what you can with steel wool -- some guys swear by steel wool and Coke but sometimes you need something a little more aggressive. There are lots of phosphoric acid preparations that work really well, and if you can get just a tiny bit on a Scotchbrite white pad and avoid getting it all over the place you'll be able to scrub off the rust and clean the residue with a damp rag without getting inadvertently removing paint. Gloves, goggles, ventilation, etc.

If it's wired to run on 110, I say run it on 110. The hours you spend running a 220 line you could be making pipes.