buffing/waxing
buffing/waxing
I have some questions about buffing and waxing:
Do you guys do the job with that little stabalizer bar on or off?
How do you keep from throwing the pipe across the room (i.e. the buffing wheel grabbing it and launching it)??
Do you find that when buffing the wheel can some of the stain and can cause the pipe to look uneven?
What type (brand, soft/medium/hard) wheels do you use?
I'm thinking about covering that stabalizing bar with some fabric to limit the dings that I get when the wheel pulls the pipe down into it... I tried taking it off only to find out that I've come to depend on it a whole lot...
Do you guys do the job with that little stabalizer bar on or off?
How do you keep from throwing the pipe across the room (i.e. the buffing wheel grabbing it and launching it)??
Do you find that when buffing the wheel can some of the stain and can cause the pipe to look uneven?
What type (brand, soft/medium/hard) wheels do you use?
I'm thinking about covering that stabalizing bar with some fabric to limit the dings that I get when the wheel pulls the pipe down into it... I tried taking it off only to find out that I've come to depend on it a whole lot...
- KurtHuhn
- Site Admin
- Posts: 5326
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: United States/Rhode Island
I normally buff using my lathe, with a 8" wheel. However, I'll be moving to a dedicated buffer soon, as soon as I can afford to buy a dual-shaft motor. I say this only because I have no idea what you speak of when you say "stabilizer bar". Do you mean the toolrest on the lathe?
When I buff, the pipe is constantly in motion, and the toolrest gets in the way, so I take it off. Also, when buffing, I wear a set of latex gloves. This helps me grip the pipe, as well as keep the oils and sweat on my hands from getting on the pipe and potentially messing up the finish. Another thing I do is stick my index finger in the tobacco hole - this locks the stummel into my hand and dropping it is nearly impossible.
Ever since I started following Todd's advice regarding buffing, shellac, and so forth, I have never had a problem with the buffing wheel taking off stain. I *strongly* suggest you give it a try. It is here on this board somewhere. The contrast in the grain is 10x better with that method, and birdseye positively pops.
I generally use soft wheels. Flannel or some other soft cotton. This seems to give me the most flexibility with buffing compounds, wax application, and final polishing. They're pretty much whatever wheel happens to be closest to me when I need to buy a new one.
Another thing to be aware of, try not to use too much pressure. That's where the wheel will try and grab the stummel away from you. I've found that faster wheel speed and lighter pressure helped me - but everyone is different and there is no blanket answer for that problem.
When I buff, the pipe is constantly in motion, and the toolrest gets in the way, so I take it off. Also, when buffing, I wear a set of latex gloves. This helps me grip the pipe, as well as keep the oils and sweat on my hands from getting on the pipe and potentially messing up the finish. Another thing I do is stick my index finger in the tobacco hole - this locks the stummel into my hand and dropping it is nearly impossible.
Ever since I started following Todd's advice regarding buffing, shellac, and so forth, I have never had a problem with the buffing wheel taking off stain. I *strongly* suggest you give it a try. It is here on this board somewhere. The contrast in the grain is 10x better with that method, and birdseye positively pops.
I generally use soft wheels. Flannel or some other soft cotton. This seems to give me the most flexibility with buffing compounds, wax application, and final polishing. They're pretty much whatever wheel happens to be closest to me when I need to buy a new one.
Another thing to be aware of, try not to use too much pressure. That's where the wheel will try and grab the stummel away from you. I've found that faster wheel speed and lighter pressure helped me - but everyone is different and there is no blanket answer for that problem.
I regarding the stabilizer bar/toolrest, I would remove it. There is no reason to have that in your way. You'll get used to buffing without it soon enough and will most likely find that you like buffing without it much more.
If the stummel is being torn out of your hand with any kind of frequency, you are doing something wrong. That has only happened to me two times ever, so there must be some way for you to alter your buffing technique and speed. Additionally, Todd's method mentioned in another post and referenced by Kurt has revolutionized my finishes. They look incredible now in comparison to my earlier method.
Here are some guidelines that I follow:
Always buff with the stummel below the center point of the wheel.
Never ever feed an edge to the wheel at an angle that will give it the opportunity to grab and chuck it at you or across the room.
Try buffing with your finger in the tobacco hole as Kurt suggested. It is a great way to secure the piece, but it will not correct everything. If you continue to do other things wrong, it may tear your finger off with the stummel!!
Early on, I was told to never press the piece being buffed more than 1/8" into the wheel. I tend to vary that to up to 1/4" but never more. The wheel should never wobble. So, if it is wobbling, back off and apply less pressure.
Basically, never apply enough pressure to really slow the motor down. Let the surface speed of the wheel do the work instead of your forearms.
I hope this helps you out.
Jeff
If the stummel is being torn out of your hand with any kind of frequency, you are doing something wrong. That has only happened to me two times ever, so there must be some way for you to alter your buffing technique and speed. Additionally, Todd's method mentioned in another post and referenced by Kurt has revolutionized my finishes. They look incredible now in comparison to my earlier method.
Here are some guidelines that I follow:
Always buff with the stummel below the center point of the wheel.
Never ever feed an edge to the wheel at an angle that will give it the opportunity to grab and chuck it at you or across the room.
Try buffing with your finger in the tobacco hole as Kurt suggested. It is a great way to secure the piece, but it will not correct everything. If you continue to do other things wrong, it may tear your finger off with the stummel!!
Early on, I was told to never press the piece being buffed more than 1/8" into the wheel. I tend to vary that to up to 1/4" but never more. The wheel should never wobble. So, if it is wobbling, back off and apply less pressure.
Basically, never apply enough pressure to really slow the motor down. Let the surface speed of the wheel do the work instead of your forearms.
I hope this helps you out.
Jeff
- achduliebe
- Posts: 729
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: United States/South Carolina
- Contact:
Did anyone have any success in finding the post by Todd about buffing and shellacing? I have looked but was unable to find it. I guess I will keep looking.
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
www.quinnpipes.com
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
www.quinnpipes.com
- achduliebe
- Posts: 729
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: United States/South Carolina
- Contact:
Hey Ben,
I know what you mean. Somebody would have to be under the influence or just plain crazy to give me access. I am dangerous enough as it is! 8O
I know what you mean. Somebody would have to be under the influence or just plain crazy to give me access. I am dangerous enough as it is! 8O
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
www.quinnpipes.com
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
www.quinnpipes.com
I use that techique to make sure my lines are straight. As you sand away the color you can see where there are little wavy areas and depressions. Once the color is gone you know that they pipe surface is as smooth as possible.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com