Billiard...

[RobEsArt]

This is a rusticated billiard I recently completed. Top grade Italian briar with a delrin mortise sleeve, hand cut ebonite stem with an integral tenon and a mother of pearl inlay.





























I appreciate all critiques and comments.

Thank you for looking and taking time to comment.

[sandahlpipe]

Looks pretty good. The stem should not flare out on the sides. Either make it fishtail out towards the button with the button being the widest portion or make it straight from the shank all the way to the button. Also, I'm sure the stem is comfortable, but it looks a little odd to have the stem have two separate tapers on the profile view. Try to make the taper in one consistent line from the shank to just behind the button.

The bottom line of the shank is off a little bit. It should be a straight line from the shank all the way to the middle of the bottom of the bowl before the curve starts upwards. The shank tapers a little too much from the shank to the bowl. If you're going to have a slight taper (which isn't wrong), it should be barely perceived.

Keep up the good work!

[wdteipen]

I like it. The only thing that really stuck out to me was the stem bulges a bit on the sides (top view) like Jeremiah noted. Other than that's it's a real winner if you ask me. I'm not usually a big fan of rustication but I really like the looks of what you've done. I'll bet it feels real nice in hand. Nice job.

[RobEsArt]

Jeremiah, thank you for the notes. I will definitely consider them in the future. The taper on the shank went that far due to trying the stem rotation sanding method. The junction was perfectly round before I began sanding, then I found a sand pit. While I was chasing that, I sanded out of round, and so implemented the rotation technique. Taper went a little far, but I don't hate it.

Wayne, Thank you for the compliment. I am still waiting for a pit-free block to present itself. This one was on the right track, until I began the sanding schedule. (At 150g- a pit on the shank, at 220 several on the bowl... nerts) So I decided to rusticate. And it does feel quite nice in the hand.

[BrianMadsen]

Looks good The main issues has already been pointed out, so i will just say that i think you are getting a lot better at your pipe making!

[Tyler]

No one's mentioned it so I will...the shank side of the bowl is flat and doesn't match the curve of the opposite side.

[RobEsArt]

No one's mentioned it so I will...the shank side of the bowl is flat and doesn't match the curve of the opposite side.

Thank you Tyler... would you please elaborate... perhaps with a visual?

[wdteipen]

No one's mentioned it so I will...the shank side of the bowl is flat and doesn't match the curve of the opposite side.

Thank you Tyler... would you please elaborate... perhaps with a visual?

I don't see it but Tyler has better eyes than I do.

[Literaryworkshop]

It bothers me that it breaks into the rim at just that one spot. Perhaps a slip of the hand? At least it's centered on the back, so it looks intentional. Nevertheless, I think it would be better with an unbroken rim.

That said, I really like the look of this rustication--kind of a scaly dinosaur look, perhaps? I think the method has a lot of potential.

[Tyler]

Third photo from the bottom shows it best. The line of the bowl on the left is straight. On the right it's curved. The left line is the one to fix.

I'm not good with fancy graphics. Maybe someone else will try.

[Sasquatch]

Here's what Tyler is seeing (I hope)





I will speak against the rustication. If I look at inexpensive pipes, like Dr Grabow, I see this type of rustication - regardless of effort or tooling, if you leave flat smooth areas the rustication shouts "drugstore". Quickly textured to cover a flaw (as opposed to lovingly completely textured .... to cover a flaw).


A good effort - billiards are hard. Easier to miss than hit, for all of us.

[Tyler]

Here's what Tyler is seeing (I hope)





I will speak against the rustication. If I look at inexpensive pipes, like Dr Grabow, I see this type of rustication - regardless of effort or tooling, if you leave flat smooth areas the rustication shouts "drugstore". Quickly textured to cover a flaw (as opposed to lovingly completely textured .... to cover a flaw).


A good effort - billiards are hard. Easier to miss than hit, for all of us.

Yes

[i.keenum]

Nice pipe rob. Keep up the good work, is the mother of pearl inlay going to be like a makers mark on your pipes?

[RobEsArt]

Thank you i.keenum.

Nice pipe rob. Keep up the good work, is the mother of pearl inlay going to be like a makers mark on your pipes?

I'm not sure. I understand the commonly accepted "need" to have a stamp and imprint your "brand" on the pipes you make. However, I haven't signed a painting, photograph, print, drawing, or sculpture for more than 6 years now. The intention of art is to promote understanding rather than self-aggrandizement. That being said... a pipe is a utilitarian object, a functional piece of art, an object that is a product. Therefore I am a little conflicted.

I am considering and currently designing a logo for a stamp, and will most likely begin to stamp my pipes as have been suggested by so many fine folks I met at the Columbus show this past August.

As all things are continuously in a state of transition, my thoughts, ideas, concepts and motives are just as susceptible.

Here's what Tyler is seeing (I hope)





I will speak against the rustication. If I look at inexpensive pipes, like Dr Grabow, I see this type of rustication - regardless of effort or tooling, if you leave flat smooth areas the rustication shouts "drugstore". Quickly textured to cover a flaw (as opposed to lovingly completely textured .... to cover a flaw).


A good effort - billiards are hard. Easier to miss than hit, for all of us.

Yes

Thank you Tyler and Sas for elaborating. I appreciate the information and the time looking at my pipe to help me become a better maker.
So, should the curve on the front of the bowl (going down and under) have started at the line where the shank meets the bowl? Or, should the shank side of the bowl have a little "belly"?

It bothers me that it breaks into the rim at just that one spot. Perhaps a slip of the hand? At least it's centered on the back, so it looks intentional. Nevertheless, I think it would be better with an unbroken rim.

That said, I really like the look of this rustication--kind of a scaly dinosaur look, perhaps? I think the method has a lot of potential.

Thank you Literaryworkshop for the comments. I agree with what you mentioned about the rim. It was not however, a slip of the hand. There was a sandpit that appeared during sanding, so I was trying to camouflage it with the rustication method.

[Sasquatch]

Shank side should have a little belly. The belly on the front is actentuated by the curve, and controlling where you cut that in (and you MAY have taken that a bit high on this pipe) makes a lot of difference to the overall look.

[sandahlpipe]

In response to your statement about branding, while I understand where you're coming from, here are some things to consider.

1. Without a stamp or some kind of marking, it will be impossible for a buyer in the secondary market to differentiate yours from a basket pipe. If you only want to sell $30 or $50 pipes, I suppose that's ok, but if you sell a pipe for $100 and it doesn't have a brand, the person who bought it will have a hard time selling it for more than the price of a used basket pipe.

2. Reputation is huge in the world of pipe making. If you don't put something on the pipe that identifies it as yours, you will need to figure out something to help build your reputation. Putting your name on a pipe lets the customer know that it is worthy of your name. It means that (hopefully) you've got a quality product that you're selling and you've rejected pipes that aren't properly engineered or look ugly.

3. Stamps aren't necessarily a mark of hubris. Taking pride in your work is different than taking pride in yourself.