#5

[Heinz_D]

Hello,

just finished #5:










At this pipe the stem is handcut ebonit again. While grinding the bowl I was in trouble: A big scratch of included bork appeared! I fortunatly got it managed, but the bowl is now 2 mm thinner then planned..

The application is buxwood - unfortunatly ther are 2 fissures I couldn't grind off and they changed the color while fixing with danish oil...

The finish is a little bit tricky: First black stain for about 2 hours, then removed carefully for a contrast staining, then orange stain over night, again grinded nearly completely off and at last golden stain - that gives something like a wild structure, doesn't it? Aftre staining I polished with 000 steelwool and fixed with Danish Oil. Drying time was 2 and a half day, then I polished with carnauba.

Issues: 2 fissures in the buxwood application, 3 very small sandpits, but not remarkable with this finish, a little bit of black stain in the bowl...
Also the stain frayed a little bit at the buxwood - I didn't know how to manage the application before staining, so I glued the application before staining, filed shank, application and stem an stained after this. I tried to cover the application with adhesive tape, but...

The stem is - as said before - handcut and bend with a hotair-gun


Some technical details (in metric):

Length: 150 mm (stem: 61 mm, application 18 mm), hight: 55 mm, width: 42 mm, tobacco chamber diameter: 24 mm, depth: 48 mm, bowl border: 5 mm;

Bit width: 18 mm, hight: 4.5 mm, bar (?): 3,5 mm

Drillings: mouthpiece: 2 mm (ca. 15 mm deep), smokechannel: 3 mm, shank: 3 / 8 mm (no filter).

Comments?


Greetings,

Heinz_D

[flix]

Heinz,

Superb! That's all I can say. I will be expecting more great things from you in future.

--Michael

[mahaffy]

Heinz,
Yes, I've been noodling at the back of my brain that problem of how to avoid staining the extension . . . and haven't come up with anything yet. Maybe someone who knows will step in with a revelation. But the stain job on the briar's very nice, I think. Danish oil -- is that what we call tung oil? Very hard semi-gloss finish when it dries? No, probably not; I don't think you'd want that on a pipe. So what is it?

[Heinz_D]

Thanks Michael, thanks John...

I just finished an older work (it should be #2). I thought I'd lost, but with some more experience I managed to keep it alive!

The shank was full with sandpits and broken 2 times! Now I made another buxwood extension and I just came out of the shop from staining this pipe... I covered the extension again and at this pipe I tried a new kind of glue for the extension: It's called Patex repair extreme super glue. It's a little bit elastic after drying but you can grind it realy well. You'll get a kind of splice, but it's as thin as a hair. I hope that this will save the extension from the stain...


@ John: I found some informations about Danish Oil in English:


Description:

Rustin's Danish Oil
Many timbers benefit from an oil finish which, unlike the surface coatings of a polish or wax finish, is absorbed by the pores of the timber and subsequent coats bond molecularly with the previous coat to produce a finish which starts underneath the surface. Danish Oil dries to a satin finish. Three coats are recommended and can be further enhanced by the application of a little paste wax or woodturning stick. Coverage: 12-15m² per litre. Drying: approximately 6hrs.

or look here: http://www.hardwoodfloorstore.co.uk/wor ... p_care.htm


Greetings,

Heinz_D

[mahaffy]

To keep it simple for those scanning the thread:

"Tung oil, Tung is a tree found in China and Africa and some South American countries.

"Linseed oil is extracted from the seeds of the flax plant by steaming and crushing them. Raw linseed oil is boiled to remove impurities and helps to make the oil dry faster.

"Danish oil is simply a mix of of various oils such as Tung and Linseed Oil with some additives to aid drying.

"Teak oil is fundamentally a mixture of various oils extracted from vegetables. It has nothing to do with the wood Teak.

"Boiled linseed oil and Danish oil are probably the best oils to use, linseed oil can be thinned 50 - 50 with white spirit to aid application and vastly speed up drying time, the white spirit simply evaporates. Another excellent oil to use is Rustin's Danish oil, which is a blend of various natural oils and synthetic resins which provide excellent hardening and drying properties. It forms a very tough seal on worktops."

-- from the link Heinz provided above. Hmmm. So here we have a "very tough seal" on the briar . . . which we've been admonished must be kept open in order to let it "breathe." On the other hand, we recently learned that the second or contrast stain should be oil based for best results. I'd guess, Heinz, that there's no residual taste from the Danish oil, or you'd not be using it? Does the briar darken as quickly as untreated briar?

[Heinz_D]

Hi John,

thank you for your abstract - you brought it right to the point...

Another point is, that a lot of German pipemakers use sealing reagents for their pipes: Cellulose matinee, grinding sealer, linseed oil and of course Danish Oil (and shellack).

The sealing effect isn't so hard that the briar couldn't breath anyway and my experiences are good so far: The behavior of some treated pipes (reconstructed and restaurated older pipes, because I didn't smoke any of my last three pipes so far ) is simply the same. Shellack and Danish Oil didn't make any difference while smoking the pipes - but the finish with Danish Oil is noticeable brighter and carnauba wax polish looks smoother.

Because linseed oil and Danish Oil do react with oxygen with time (linseed oil slower then Danish Oil), they'll first get into the wood and then get harder and fill the pores. (Attention: Used clothes and kleenex, etc. you used with linseed and Danish Oil will be able to inflame by themself! It's the reaction with oxygen, only quicker as in the briar, in case of the bigger surface. I ever burn this materials directly after use!)

I red an article on DAFT for some tests with "breathing" briar. The conclusion is, that the drying of briar after smoking will not be throug the briar but only on then inner surface of the bowl. One has cut over some older, long time used pipebowls and realised that the smut of the tobacco only get a few millimeters from the inner bowl into the wood.

Therfor also the myth that laquered pipes are bad pipes, because they couldn't breath through the briar is wrong too...

Conclusion: What is wrong on a harder and deeper sealing without any smell or taste if we can get a longer durable and bright finish for nearly the same coasts as shellack?

BTW: Shellack also gets into the briar, but not as deep as any of the oils and so it isn't as durable, because you grab it off the surface with time - that's the reason for the longer durability of oil finishes.

John's last question: Because linseed and Danish Oil do a kind of polimerisation with the air's oxygen it is totaly neutral for taste and smell and the resulting coat will beware the briar for darken at least as good as shellack - it'll not darken as quick as untreadted briar!

Greetings,

Heinz

[alexanderfrese]

Heinz I strongly second the critique to that ever reocurring myth of the "breathing" briar. I believe it to be complete nonsense, too. Problem is, that that hoax is so strong, that even the facts (I've seen those old bowls split into two pieces, so you could see, that the drying process soes not take place through outside surface of the bowl…) won't let us state the usage of any varnishes of any kind besides shellac, natural oils and good ole carnauba.
As a matter of fact, linseed oils do seal, so the breathing is impossible, with those, too. Linseed oils seems more "natural" than cellulose products (I am experimenting with those…), and this comes more closely to the perception of a pipe being something "natural". But after all, it's no difference.
The other fact is, that the market knows varnished pipes as those grab-basket pipes (and they were even lacquered badly…), so a good pipe is percepted as being within that quality range when treated with varnish.