No. 16
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- Posts: 223
- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 5:03 pm
- Location: pennsylvania USA
No. 16
Here is my 16th. Cumberland stem with integral tenon. I'm also trying to improve my photography. I find it more difficult to get the pipe in profile using the tripod. So, please excuse the pics. I welcome criticism and suggestions. Thanks for your reply.
Re: No. 16
Personally, I find the button a bit tall - I would knock it down by half. Possibly because of the rustication, the shank looks a little fat at the joint with the stem.
Other than that, a very pretty pipe, and that little tiny area of smooth at the rim is just wonderful. Makes the pipe, imho.
Other than that, a very pretty pipe, and that little tiny area of smooth at the rim is just wonderful. Makes the pipe, imho.
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
Re: No. 16
I'd like to know how the thin walls at the top hold up over time. I really like the near color-matching stain job where it meets the stem.
Re: No. 16
I find these type of stummels quite a challenge to do, possibly because of the forward cant. It's as if I can't find a reference point from where to work to get it round and then sloping. This one is very well executed.
On the last photo especially, it seems as if the underside of the shank/stem joint bulges a little bit. But it can also just be the photo.
As Sasquatch said, the button also seems a tad too tall.
Like the rustication, though, and also the bit of smooth rim on top. I normally don't worry too much about thin walls. Like somebody said (can't remember who): you can feel when the pipe is getting hot easier and when it does, you put it down.
On the last photo especially, it seems as if the underside of the shank/stem joint bulges a little bit. But it can also just be the photo.
As Sasquatch said, the button also seems a tad too tall.
Like the rustication, though, and also the bit of smooth rim on top. I normally don't worry too much about thin walls. Like somebody said (can't remember who): you can feel when the pipe is getting hot easier and when it does, you put it down.
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- Posts: 223
- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 5:03 pm
- Location: pennsylvania USA
Re: No. 16
Sasquatch, I agree with your comment regaurding the height of the button. I cut it down a little. I'm not sure about the shank. I used the tool post to turn the shank, so the diameter would be constant along its entire length. When I measure, I find the diameter is within .007, the stem end being thinnest. Do you think that the shank should have tapered toward the stem? I expected the criticism of this pipe to be directed at the shape of the bowl. I feel it should have been more tulip like.
T3, I'm not concerned about the thin top of the bowl. The walls gain thickness rapidly. As long as a blow torch is not used to light the pipe, it should be ok.
Thanks for your replies, Scot
The first stummel for this pipe. I wanted it to be shaped closer to this.
The reason I had to make another.
T3, I'm not concerned about the thin top of the bowl. The walls gain thickness rapidly. As long as a blow torch is not used to light the pipe, it should be ok.
Thanks for your replies, Scot
The first stummel for this pipe. I wanted it to be shaped closer to this.
The reason I had to make another.
Re: No. 16
Oh the HORROR!
the
horror...
I think the bowl shape is fine. Really elegant, actually. More egg than tulip? Oh well.
Yes, I think the shank should taper just a hair if you are doing a tapered stem. The fact that it's rusticated (ie, material is removed) makes it appear thinner near the bowl (and therefore fatter at the stem). If you are going to use a saddle bit, you can go with a constant diameter shank, but if you go to a tapered stem, I think it's almost mandatory to have a little taper in the shank or it looks fat in the middle like an earthworm.
I have an older il ceppo with a very thin rim and it's been fine for 20 years.
the
horror...
I think the bowl shape is fine. Really elegant, actually. More egg than tulip? Oh well.
Yes, I think the shank should taper just a hair if you are doing a tapered stem. The fact that it's rusticated (ie, material is removed) makes it appear thinner near the bowl (and therefore fatter at the stem). If you are going to use a saddle bit, you can go with a constant diameter shank, but if you go to a tapered stem, I think it's almost mandatory to have a little taper in the shank or it looks fat in the middle like an earthworm.
I have an older il ceppo with a very thin rim and it's been fine for 20 years.
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
Re: No. 16
Sorry, didn't mean for the question to come across as a comment or critique. It was for my edification. I just never remembered to ask till I saw your pipe
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- Posts: 223
- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 5:03 pm
- Location: pennsylvania USA
Re: No. 16
T3, I'm not offended by your comment at all. I post on this forum because I'm seeking the honest impressions of others who smoke and appreciate pipes. If I were looking for back patting, I'd ask my wifes opinion. She'd gladly lie to me. The thinness of the bowl is a valid concern, and could be a problem for some smokers. I usually light with a match and draw slowly. thank you for taking the time to offer your comments.
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- Posts: 223
- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 5:03 pm
- Location: pennsylvania USA
Re: No. 16
Tapered shank as Sasquatch suggested. Any better?
Re: No. 16
If I'd have some spare money I'd ask: How much do you want for this pipe? I love bent eggs, I love rustics...
Got thoughts? http://grandiflorum.net
Re: No. 16
I am fond of this pipe,elegant lines and a very fine rustication- not over done,i can imagine it very well with some sweet vanilla flakes by a fire place.
Re: No. 16
the shape is a 10!
i like it a lot.
i like it a lot.
Re: No. 16
Very nice looking pipe. I really like the shape. Very fine Job
Re: No. 16
Really good job! Keep up the good work.
Re: No. 16
Very nice looking pipe.