Small Bent

[Growley]

I just finished this one up recently. It has a hand cut Ebonite stem with acrylic accent ring. These pictures don't do the accent ring much justice, but in the light is has a very tasteful orange/gold mother of pearl type look. It measures a whopping 4 inches and has a good sized chamber at 1.5 inches deep by 13/16th bore.

See what you think:













Thanks for looking.

Brian.

[d.huber]

This one looks great! The overall composition is really lovely. I love the shape of the bowl. Especially the bottom line of the pipe.

As far as critiques go, once that beautiful bottom line gets to the stem, it loses its elegance to my eyes. It's as if the lower line of the pipe began to continue into the stem and then took a turn that wasn't sharp enough to communicate a transition nor was it soft enough to continue the line. It feels strange to me.

Also, as I've watched you roll out solid work, my eyes are drawn toward your bits. They look clunky and unrefined to me. IMO, they are currently detracting from the overall excellence of your pipes.

That's it though! I like the accent you used on the pipe too. It compliments the color of the stain and helps to bring the entire pipe together as a singular composition. Well done!

[Ocelot55]

Dang Brian! You might be my favorite new carver. It looks like a mini Stanwell 186, one of my favorite shapes!

The bit could use some thinning. However what sticks out most to me is the width of the shank as we come closer to the stem shank junction. On your pipe is gets wider. I don't know if this was intentional or not, but to me it doesn't look like it. If it was intentional I would expect a hair more flaring., IMHO.

Overall great pipe! It seems you're very fond of the danish aesthetic. Keep up the good work man!

[Growley]

Dang Brian! You might be my favorite new carver. It looks like a mini Stanwell 186, one of my favorite shapes!

The bit could use some thinning. However what sticks out most to me is the width of the shank as we come closer to the stem shank junction. On your pipe is gets wider. I don't know if this was intentional or not, but to me it doesn't look like it. If it was intentional I would expect a hair more flaring., IMHO.

Overall great pipe! It seems you're very fond of the danish aesthetic. Keep up the good work man!

Thanks for the comments and compliments. After UberHuberMan made the button comment, I went back and fixed it. I tend to overlook the shape of the button sometimes, because it's my least favorite part of the pipe. Pathetic really, it only takes minutes to make the button look decent.

After reading your comment on the shank, I went out and put my digital calipers on it. You are right about the slight flare, but only by a fraction of a millimeter. There is less that 1 MM difference between the middle of the shank and the junction. Dang these large pictures. They make everything look more pronounced then they really are!

I very much prefer the Danish style and am interested in some Japanese styles as well. I feel a pipe should be elegant and exude style and class. Hopefully someday mine will have all of the above

[HumblePipe]

I love it! That is one fine looking pipe and I wouldnt mind making one similiar to that myself.

[d.huber]

After UberHuberMan made the button comment, I went back and fixed it.

Oooh! Update pics, please!

[Growley]

After UberHuberMan made the button comment, I went back and fixed it.

Oooh! Update pics, please!

Had to get some "actual" work done today. I'll try to update it tomorrow.

[JMG]

Great looking pipe, Brian.

[wdteipen]

Good looking pipe, Brian. You've gotten pretty good feedback already regarding what I see. I'll add that I think the stem is significantly overbent. It may also be a touch short in addition to starting to taper too close to the junction of the stem and shank. I think this is what is causing the disruption in your lines that UberHuberMan is referring to. If you added about a 1/4 inch to your stem then brought it out from the shank about a 1/4 inch before starting your taper it would help. The other option is to start tapering very gradually from the shank and following the taper gradually through the stem to the button. Your making good progress. Keep up the good work.

[Growley]

Good looking pipe, Brian. You've gotten pretty good feedback already regarding what I see. I'll add that I think the stem is significantly overbent. It may also be a touch short in addition to starting to taper too close to the junction of the stem and shank. I think this is what is causing the disruption in your lines that UberHuberMan is referring to. If you added about a 1/4 inch to your stem then brought it out from the shank about a 1/4 inch before starting your taper it would help. The other option is to start tapering very gradually from the shank and following the taper gradually through the stem to the button. Your making good progress. Keep up the good work.

Yeah, I learned a lot on this one. I was telling Tyler just last night the exact same thing. The reason the stem is over bent is because I was trying to make up for the curve that needed to be there. The reason the curve wasn't there was because I tapered the stem with an even taper from button to shank, and on a bent like this (as you said) you can't do it that way. It was one of those Ah ha moments for me. Oh, and the reason the stem is a tad too short is because when I cut the tenon I got it a bit too small first pass, so I just continued with it being about half an inch too small. I think I'll try to re-make the stem for this one and see if I can fix all the problems mentioned.

Thanks all for the feedback.

[maxmil]

A strong pipe.
Best regards.
Félix

Una pipa contundente.
Saludos.
Félix