Want to show you work to the world? Want a place to post photos of your work and solicit the opinions of those that have gone before you? Post your work here.
Well I've just finished my first bent bulldog and I need some advice. I wanted to make an entry into the Kansas City pipe carving competition in a few weeks. I know I don't have a ghost of a chance of been one of the top picks, but I wanted to get my name out there. When I started this bulldog my intention was to enter it into the show. Now that it is done, I'm not too happy with it. I want to enter the contest, but I don't have time to make another bulldog and I'm not happy with this one. What do you guys think? Does it look okay enough to enter?
A couple of things that really bother me on this particular pipe: This is only my second hand-carved stem. The bit is horribly thick. The polish sucks, and frankly even though I used some quality plateau briar it had pits galore. Let me know what you guys think.
My main critique would be that the top bevel of the bowl doesn't look to be the same width all the way around. The back side of the bowl (shank side) seems a bit thinner than the front...though this could just be a trick of the camera. Secondly, I think you could get a bit better finish on it overall.
Those two things aside, it's a pretty nice looking pipe. Stem work looks really nice. I haven't tried a bulldog yet, though the thought of it certainly seems to be one of the more challenging shapes to me.
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
Only thing that kind of made me stop was that I am not sure if the bottom of the pipe should line up with the center line of the of the chamber. Chin? Inverse apex?
@ JMG: Well, you're seeing correctly. I could blame the asymmetry on my not having a lathe, but I'll just admit that I should have done a better job with it. And yes, the finish sucks.
@ MonsieurLabo: The stem is made out of one of those rhinoplastic blanks from exoticblanks.com. they are really affordable and are a breeze to shape. Right now I use them more because of price than quality. I just can't afford to screw up some premium ebonite. As far as the chin, aka inverse apex, aka whatever, I looked at a lot of bulldogs before I started and came to the conclusion that I liked that particular look. It feels to me like it has some forward momentum, plus I think that extra weight balanced the composition. Of course I could be full of it (and often am).
Personally, I like it a lot, even its cocked rim bevel. What don't you like about the finish? I like the satin sheen, I don't think all pipes need be shiny nor high contrast stain; it seems subtle and relaxed. I like too the contrast of stummel to stem; it's still classy but informal.
Can I ask how you made the stem? Is it something I could do with files and sandpaper (and a drill I presume)?
The pits are unfortunate but I used to pay quite a premium for pecky cypress so perhaps we need a pecky heather category. I don't know the protocol for these pipe competitions but what could it hurt? Lots of people compete in things just for the experience and, who knows, it could set you up for "most improved" next year.
@ JMG: Well, you're seeing correctly. I could blame the asymmetry on my not having a lathe, but I'll just admit that I should have done a better job with it. And yes, the finish sucks.
@ MonsieurLabo: The stem is made out of one of those rhinoplastic blanks from exoticblanks.com. they are really affordable and are a breeze to shape. Right now I use them more because of price than quality. I just can't afford to screw up some premium ebonite. As far as the chin, aka inverse apex, aka whatever, I looked at a lot of bulldogs before I started and came to the conclusion that I liked that particular look. It feels to me like it has some forward momentum, plus I think that extra weight balanced the composition. Of course I could be full of it (and often am).
This shows great progress from your last! However, you are capable of doing MUCH better work. You can see the little details, but it seems as if a compromise is taking place in your creative process that needs to be eliminated. Take your time on your next pipe. Spend 50 hours on it if you have to, but get those details right.
You can do it!
Btw, I don't mean to sound big headed, nor do I mean to sound like I'm an experienced pipe maker. I'm not. At all. However, I have been extensively trained in the creative process and have been a professional artist for most of my adult life(yes, that means full time). While I may not know a lot about pipe making, I do know a lot about people and how art gets created. It is from this standpoint that I say: push yourself, Jessie. You're 100% capable. Push yourself.
@ Hudson: I used a delrin tenon (which is a pain in some respects, but not others). I drill a hole most of the way through the stock with a 1/8 bit and then drill a mortise for the delrin to fit into. After its epoxied in I redrill it with a tapered 5/32 bit. From there I use a 1/16 bit to create a hole all the way through the stock. I use needle files to cut the slot (these files are pretty thick which is why my bits are so uncomfortable. I need to get something else to do the slot). Then its a ton of files and sandpaper to achieve the shape.
@Uber: I'd say your diagnosis is pretty accurate, doc. I get so excited about the finished product I wind up fudging on small details. I guess I have pipemakeing ADD.
Funny thing about pipe making is that I've discovered a lot about myself by engaging in this creative process.
Being a new pipemaker myself, and having had a LOT of issues cutting my own stems, I know all about the issues with needs files. First, find yourself a set that is really thin, it's worth the trouble! Or, buy a second set and thin them yourself on a belt sander, being careful to keep them cool. You really only need one side to cut.
Also, pick up an "X-acto saw". Not their mini back-saw, but they make saw blades that fit into an Xacto knife handle. These are very thin blades, and they work well (I just picked up a set).
Another option is to make your own saws from jig-saw blades. Use the type that have the teeth ground into them, not the type where the teeth are bent to opposite sides to get the set.
Or, use hack-saw blades. These also work well, and come in an array of TPI numbers.
And as has been said before, don't let the details slide, you'll regret it later! (I've been guilty of this too) Take your time, and do it the best you possibly can. You'll have more pride in the final product, and be happier with yourself.
But it is a nice pipe, and I see no reason not to enter it.
If you're really not happy enough with the pipe to enter it, make another! It doesn't have to be a bulldog (unless you want it to be), and if you go into it with the mindset to make it the best you can, I'm sure you'll be more pleased.
And as for the flaws in the briar, don't sweat it! Some of the most beautiful woods in existence are riddled with flaws. Ever worked with Amboyna Burl? It's incredibly beautiful, one of the most beautiful woods I have ever seen and used. But it often has flaws, as most types of burl do.
What I do when working with flawed woods like this (though I have yet to do this on a pipe), is to simply fill the voids with a contrasting color, normally ebony dust.
I take ebony sawdust (lathe shavings actually), put it into a coffee grinder and grind it to a fine powder. I then rub this powder into the voids as best I can, often tapping on the piece to get it to settle in. Then I flood the area with thin CA. This basically makes a permanent fill in the void of a contrasting color, and people love it! It adds another layer of depth to the wood, and more color than it originally had.
But most importantly, I'm not trying to hide it. It's when you try to hide flaws that people notice in a negative manner. When you use flaws to your advantage, and you make them stand out, it can add another level of beauty.
Now, I'm not saying to go and grab your coffee grinder and the CA, but I think you can come up with something!
If you want to see an example of my "ebony fills", go look at my pens in the "other things we make" section. The Black Cherry Burl has a lot of ebony fills. Not all the dark spots are ebony, but there are quite a few! But if you tell me you don't like the way it looks, you'll be the first person who has ever said so. (and I'm not bragging here either, it just turned out well)
Here's how I'm looking at it. Having not seen the entries before in the P&T magazine, I'm not sure how much exposure you will or won't get with a pipe entry. Either way, the question I asked myself was, "Do I want this pipe to be the one that's asking for exposure for the name I'm trying to build?"
I don't plan on winning with the Eskidesian, but I'm hoping to use this a marketing opportunity to get my name out there. With that said, I'm really very happy with how the pipe turned out and hope it won't prove to be a negative marketing experience for me.
People could look at it and say, "that's a decent pipe, I wonder if he has a website."
They could also say, "eh, not bad for a beginner, so I'll keep my eye on him and see if he progresses."
Or they could say it's a terrible entry and be warded off of the "Growley" name forever.
I don't know if that helps or not. I just finished spending 2 hours mowing the lawn in the blazing heat and am probably a bit dehydrated.
Ocelot55 wrote:@ Hudson: I used a delrin tenon (which is a pain in some respects, but not others). I drill a hole most of the way through the stock with a 1/8 bit and then drill a mortise for the delrin to fit into. After its epoxied in I redrill it with a tapered 5/32 bit. From there I use a 1/16 bit to create a hole all the way through the stock. I use needle files to cut the slot (these files are pretty thick which is why my bits are so uncomfortable. I need to get something else to do the slot). Then its a ton of files and sandpaper to achieve the shape.
Thanks Ocelot. I'm guessing you're not doing this by hand; would you mind telling me what kind of jig you use? I'm enjoying the briar shaping aspects but I'd like to try and learn more things I'm able to do without a lathe or drill press. I appreciate any advice you might share.
Ocelot55 wrote:@Uber: I'd say your diagnosis is pretty accurate, doc. I get so excited about the finished product I wind up fudging on small details. I guess I have pipemakeing ADD.
Nothing wrong with macrocosmic thinking. Just think of the macrocosmic (the finished pipe) as a conglomeration of hundreds of microcosmic details. In short, your pipe won't kick ass if the details don't kick ass. Get OCD with your ADD.
Oooh, I need to fix that. (fixed) Oooh, I need to fix that. (fixed) Oooh, I need to fix that. (fixed) etc., etc., ad nauseum.
Careful though. This is where my mind lives and as we've all seen you can ruin a pipe by taking away too much.
@ Kenny:I've looked several times for those Xacto saws on amazon with no luck. I can't imagine they wouldn't be there so I guess I need to try a different key word. I've thought about a hacksaw or jigsaw blade too. I'll need to get that figured out soon before I make another stem.
@ Growley: Thanks for the advice. I might try one more time before the show to make more acceptable bulldog. I thought Alabama was getting lots of rain. You shouldn't be dehydrated.
@ Hudson: I use a drill press to do all this stem work. Drill presses really aren't expensive, even for a pretty good one. I'd think it would be extremely difficult to make a stem without one. There is a great thread on making hand carved stems without a lathe in the stem work section. That's the one I used.
@ HuberDuberGuyManDude: Waaay easier said than done, man, but I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the advice.
I think Growley hit the nail on the head. Getting known is one thing, but known for what?
It is perhaps strange that the philosophy of a gigantic pipe making interest, Stanwell, was exactly what the philosophy of an artisan pipe maker has to be. Stanwell made lots of pipes. Terrific ones got the Stanwell stamp. Unterrific ones got any number of other stamps, or went out the back door destined to become some other "brand".
Don't send it out the door if it isn't the best you can do. Nobody expects a less-experienced pipe maker to produce a masterpiece, but when you yourself can see that the briar is bad, the lines shaky, and the stem too thick.... the piece isn't ready for primetime. So don't spotlight it.
If you want to make another and enter the contest because it's FUN.... give' er! But entering to get known, and especially with a pipe that no one would accept the flaws on if they found it in a shop... well, that's no way to make your name.
FWIW I just threw out a pipe I worked on for 6 or 7 hours. Big flaw, last minute, radically changed the shape, and then made a few adjustments to the overall shape thinking I had saved it, only to find a crack hidden somewhere else. This would have been a remarkable pipe, one of my best ever, and it's garbage. It happens.
Here ya go! I'm not positive this is the exact part # you'll want, as there are a few sizes of this type available. I'd tell you what mine are, but I can't find the darn box! Anyway, you can look at these and the others offered and see what you think will work, or maybe someone else can give a model #?
Or, if you like, I can send you a custom ground hacksaw blade, complete with a little turned handle, as well as one of the jigsaw blades I use, again on a little handle. I really don't mind. Just pm me your address, I'll grind up a couple blades and get them shipped to you, complete with handles. And no, I don't want any money for it. This is just helping out a fellow piper!
Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'll think I'll probably sit out this show. As much as I'd like to participate I want to enter something I'm more proud of. I might bring this pipe and show it to some makers to get some up close and personal critique. That is probably more appropriate at this stage in my pipemaking career.
And yes, the finish sucks.
