2nd briar pipe: Rusticated Takeshima Pot

[Sorringowl]

Hey Fellers,

This is my 2nd briar pipe, a rusticated pot shape (hopefully), with a lucite stem. This one took awhile, mostly because halfway through this, I dropped the pipe and the tenon snapped off in the stummel. Awesome. After I replaced/repaired it with a delrin tenon (which I should have done in the first place), I was able to finish it up. Probably could use another buffing session but, I couldn't wait anymore. So, I leave it in your capable hands. Any criticism is gladly welcomed.










Tried getting a better shot of my stem work, and this is one of the most challenging and time/labor intensive parts for me, I'm finding (especially around the button)--that, and buffing--but my camera seems to have a lazy eye.


Close up of the rustication.

I really liked the design that was created on the stem (from turning the square rod I started out with on it's side--as I wanted a wider stem), which, reminded me of two mountains in a misty sea. It looked very Japanese to me, somehow, so, I dubbed it after a pair of islands off the Japanese coast, the Takeshima islands (I'm sure that was due to the influence of maxmil, who is always doing these great designs based in nature--I love Felix's work!)

Anyway, thanks for looking.

[JMG]

Looks like a cross between an Ascorti and Castello.

[Sasquatch]

I like the profile more than the top view - not sure what the flaring out shank and wide stem accomplish on this shape.

[Growley]

I agree with Sas on the flair, but over all I like the shape.

[Sorringowl]

I like the profile more than the top view - not sure what the flaring out shank and wide stem accomplish on this shape.

I'm glad you asked that, oh Big Footed One. It's mostly a design preference; I really like a lot of the flared stem work of makers like Grechukin, Brad Pohlmann, Jeff Gracik, and others; but, it also serves a more practical purpose (at least, for me) I have bad teeth! (haha) and I have a hard time clenching unless a stem is either made a bit thicker in the middle (if it's a more traditionally narrower stem--like the stem on the pipe you made for me--a bit thicker in the middle), OR, if it's a stem that's thinner at the button, flatter and wider work better for my particular dentition (which is what I was after on this pipe).

If the stem on a pipe, like most pipes, is thin at the bit and somewhat narrow in width, it's all over the place and I can't clench without clenching hard (which gives me a headache after a bit). And because I use my hands for work all the time, clenching is kind of a necessity for me.

That being said, let me know if you guys think the stem shape takes away from the overall design.

[DMI]

Personal opinion:

I think tapered stem&shank combo's work best if there is a constant taper from one end to the other, the number of different widths on your shank & stem make it look more like an 'ooops a bit to much off there so i'll taper the shank', the rustictation doesn't help either.

The overall shape is almost there, a few tweaks and a tidy up before you rusticated it would have resulted in a 'tighter' shape.

The beveled rim has worked well and is a nice touch, damn flaws turn up in the most inconvenient places don't they.

If you have trouble clenching have you thought of making a dental stem? you know the ones with really big upper buttons.

David.

[Sorringowl]

Personal opinion:

I think tapered stem&shank combo's work best if there is a constant taper from one end to the other, the number of different widths on your shank & stem make it look more like an 'ooops a bit to much off there so i'll taper the shank', the rustictation doesn't help either.

The overall shape is almost there, a few tweaks and a tidy up before you rusticated it would have resulted in a 'tighter' shape.

The beveled rim has worked well and is a nice touch, damn flaws turn up in the most inconvenient places don't they.

If you have trouble clenching have you thought of making a dental stem? you know the ones with really big upper buttons.

David.

Hey David,
So, when you say a constant taper from one end to the other, I'm taking you mean all the way from the bowl to the end of the stem? Hmm...yeah, I'm starting to see what you guys are talking about.

So, I'm thinking it might be a little too wide at the stem/shank junction? Because, I can see where, if I narrowed the shank/stem in that area, tapering the whole line so it's a bit more concave (rather than convex, which is more of what it is now), or even just a straight line that widens at the button, it might flow a little better. I mean, I'm not gonna' do that because I'm sick of looking at this damn thing, but--yeah, nice! If that's what I learned from this pipe, great! Something to work on going ahead.

And yes, that damn check showed up as soon as I was done turning that rim bevel. I should have known, though. This block had a couple, big, gnarly, well, gnarls, here and there. I had planned to rusticate this from the get go, so, that's why I chose this block but I'm starting to think, whether you rusticate or not, it's better to have a relatively clear block anyway, as it gives you more options.

As far as the teeth issues, my back teeth are slanted inward on top and bottom (a result of four impacted wisdom teeth when I was 21--hey, what can I say? I"m a wiseguy!--ba--ROOM-pah!). So, what should be a flat surface to clench is more like two narrow points (the outside edges of my teeth) trying to "pinch" a stem rather than clench. I've tried vintage pipes with "Dental" stems and they just miss the mark for me, and they're just not comfortable. Also, aesthetically, I think they look god awful (they're kind of like putting an air dam on a limousine--it's just not elegant).

I would prefer, instead, a slightly taller button (on top and bottom), or, as with this pipe, a flatter, wider surface to grip. In that respect, for me, this pipe is really comfortable. I can clench this with very little effort.

[Sorringowl]

All the above being said, though (and upon further consideration), I can look back on the making of this and I realize that my main focus on this pipe was the bowl area (trying to get the whole bevel, cant, and rim width in balance), and making a stem that was comfortable enough for me to clench.

So, in this case, form did follow function but, maybe a little too much? I will have to think about that as I smoke this pipe...in a few minutes.

I don't know anymore, guys...let me know what you think.

[DMI]

The taper I was thinking off would be marked out like this:



If you are making pipes just for yourself there is no reason why the stem has to be 'normal' a quick idea:



David.

[Sorringowl]

The taper I was thinking off would be marked out like this:



If you are making pipes just for yourself there is no reason why the stem has to be 'normal' a quick idea:



David.

Hmm, yeah, I can see how that would have looked a bit more elegant and flowing...

On that 2nd pic, am I looking at a cross-section (side view) of the button part? or, is that an asymmetrical button? Interesting...

[Cory]

Looks like an asymmetrical button that you would hold with your molars/back teeth (along one side of your mouth).

[DMI]

It's end on, the taper allows for the angled surface while the 'button' will help locate it, you might want to include a lateral curve to allow for the curve of your jaw.

David.