Wallace
Second Billiard
Second Billiard
I am working on my classic shapes. This is my second billiard. Please comment on how to make my third more "technically" correct. Any photo advice would also be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Wallace
Wallace
Re: Second Billiard
I love the profile of this pipe but I think from the front on view you took too much off the bottom "corners"
not sure if this makes sense.
And I don't know shit about shit, in fact Rad doesn't even acknowledge my existence, and Sas does only because I am so handsome. So take my comment for what its worth... not a whole lot
rev
You have really been working hard and getting quite a bit better brother, good job
not sure if this makes sense.
And I don't know shit about shit, in fact Rad doesn't even acknowledge my existence, and Sas does only because I am so handsome. So take my comment for what its worth... not a whole lot
rev
You have really been working hard and getting quite a bit better brother, good job
"but rev, isn't smoking a sin?"
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
Re: Second Billiard
Rev you've posted a pretty "Danish" billiard - they tend be a little fuller in the bottom end of the bowl, pushing more to brandy as it were, than a more English shape.
http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/d ... _id=113485
This shows a more "mid-line-as fattest area" approach.
The basic proportions of the pipe are right, Alfa, and now it's about cleaning up lines. The rounded edge of the rim has to go - keep this sharp and add a bevel to the chamber and it would look a lot cleaner. The bowl has a sharp radius at the top, flattens right out, then curves under to meet the shank. If it's straight, make it straight, if it's to be curved a little, carry the curve all the way through.
Dunhills taper right from the joint of the stem and shank to the button - it's a very clean look. Your pipe sort of has a sweeping curve in the stem - comfortable, but it makes for a pipe that is visually heavy at the gold band, where it's already interesting enough.
http://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/d ... _id=113485
This shows a more "mid-line-as fattest area" approach.
The basic proportions of the pipe are right, Alfa, and now it's about cleaning up lines. The rounded edge of the rim has to go - keep this sharp and add a bevel to the chamber and it would look a lot cleaner. The bowl has a sharp radius at the top, flattens right out, then curves under to meet the shank. If it's straight, make it straight, if it's to be curved a little, carry the curve all the way through.
Dunhills taper right from the joint of the stem and shank to the button - it's a very clean look. Your pipe sort of has a sweeping curve in the stem - comfortable, but it makes for a pipe that is visually heavy at the gold band, where it's already interesting enough.
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
Re: Second Billiard
I was looking for a good head on shot. What I was talking about is that if you look at the profile shots you have a nice curve then a sharper finish at the bottom, but on the front on shots you see almost a point at the bottom
rev
rev
"but rev, isn't smoking a sin?"
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
Re: Second Billiard
I can see what you two have pointed out now that you've told me what to look for. Is this recap correct? --
Rev - You are saying the head on shot should pretty much mimic the side shot? More of a U than an upside down egg? That shows pretty well in the quarter on shots you and Sas linked for me. Thank you.
Sas - At the rear of the bowl, from rim to shank, I can see the curve, straight, then curve again. You are saying straight is okay or curve is okay, just not both together in one line, yeah?
The juncture of the sides to the bowl should be sharp, but a bevel on the inside top of the chamber is okay.
The stem taper should be more of a flat, straight taper, as opposed to the dished out taper that I used. Should I start the taper where I did since i used a ring, or at the stem/shank juncture like the Dunhill and include the ring in the taper?
Also, what's the difference between a ring and a band? My terminology needs work, too.
Thank you both for your assistance , you've been very helpful.
Wallace
Rev - You are saying the head on shot should pretty much mimic the side shot? More of a U than an upside down egg? That shows pretty well in the quarter on shots you and Sas linked for me. Thank you.
Sas - At the rear of the bowl, from rim to shank, I can see the curve, straight, then curve again. You are saying straight is okay or curve is okay, just not both together in one line, yeah?
The juncture of the sides to the bowl should be sharp, but a bevel on the inside top of the chamber is okay.
The stem taper should be more of a flat, straight taper, as opposed to the dished out taper that I used. Should I start the taper where I did since i used a ring, or at the stem/shank juncture like the Dunhill and include the ring in the taper?
Also, what's the difference between a ring and a band? My terminology needs work, too.
Thank you both for your assistance , you've been very helpful.
Wallace
Re: Second Billiard
Yeah, that is what I am saying. I was told it should be the same all of the way around, a nice u shape
rev
rev
"but rev, isn't smoking a sin?"
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
Re: Second Billiard
What about the stem? I understand what Sas was saying about a straight taper as opposed to my dished out half ass semi-saddle, but do I start the taper on the button side of my ring like I did this one, or at the stem shank junction and taper the ring along with the rest of the stem?
Thanks guys.
Wallace
Thanks guys.
Wallace
Re: Second Billiard
in my opinion, from an artistic standpoint having the ring framed in black pulls your eye at it really hard, and then starting your taper there pulls even more. So you are making the ring the focal point of the pipe, and it shouldn't be. If it was me I would either put the ring at the end, with no small disc in front of it, then taper straight from there, or I would taper the ring and the disc right from the shank if you can do that
but again, I can not do this myself, and really don't know shit, just what I think based on composition ideas
rev
but again, I can not do this myself, and really don't know shit, just what I think based on composition ideas
rev
"but rev, isn't smoking a sin?"
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
Re: Second Billiard
Why can't you do this yourself or is this dry wit? Or if you admit your superiority, are you afraid I'll send the pipe to you for a new stem? This part is dry wit. 
Wallace
Wallace
Re: Second Billiard
I cannot make rings, I do not know how. But I have a lathe now, should be good to go soon. I guess I could use your technique, but I didn't completely understand it. As for superiority I think I have a little more practice than you, but you are fast catching up. I just started brother, I am not one of the pros here I am a noob just a few months in front of you
rev
rev
"but rev, isn't smoking a sin?"
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
well I suppose if one were to smoke to excess it would be a sin
"but what would be smoking to excess?"
Why smoking two pipes at once of course
Re: Second Billiard
My jig was a good fix for some rings, but I found the perfect solution in a two year old post of Kurt's. http://www.delviesplastics.com sells cast acrylic sheets. The small sizes are 12"x12" and run $5.50 ea for 1/16" and 1/8" thick. They are perfectly flat and parallel. They come in thicknesses up to 3/8". 1/4" and 3\8" thicknesses are $8.50 each. I ordered white in 1/16". Ivory in 1/8" and 1/4", and Black in 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8". To get perfect rings, all you need is a 3/4" hole saw from McMaster-Carr for under $5.00 and an arbor with drill bit, also under $5.00. I got the arbor with the 1/4" drill bit and will redrill with a 21/64" drill bit to slide over the 5/16" tenon without being loose. the arbor takes a hex bit (1/4" incl) My machinist friend is going to modify the 21/64 bit to work in the arbor so I won't have to redrill after that. Perfect acrylic rings using a hole saw.
The brass and copper rings are nothing but brass and copper washers from McMaster-Carr. Every one I've used has been perfectly flat and parallel. I just use sandpaper on a marble tile to rough them up for gluing. I haven't had to flatten or true them at all. I get the 3/4" diameter with 5/16" hole. The brass comes in different thicknesses. They're basically ready to glue up as is, I just sand to provide more "bite" for the glue.
My wooden rings are made from thin stock lumber from Woodcraft. It comes in thicknesses from 1/16 to 1/2. It has also proven to be flat and parallel and comes in all kinds of exotic or domestic hardwoods. 3"x24" size. Very affordable and no work. Just cut out with the hole saw and glue up.
My rings have become the easiest part of pipe making since I learned all these shortcuts. If you like rings, give these ideas a shot. I have no metal lathe, and my need for one is rapidly disappearing.
Wallace
The brass and copper rings are nothing but brass and copper washers from McMaster-Carr. Every one I've used has been perfectly flat and parallel. I just use sandpaper on a marble tile to rough them up for gluing. I haven't had to flatten or true them at all. I get the 3/4" diameter with 5/16" hole. The brass comes in different thicknesses. They're basically ready to glue up as is, I just sand to provide more "bite" for the glue.
My wooden rings are made from thin stock lumber from Woodcraft. It comes in thicknesses from 1/16 to 1/2. It has also proven to be flat and parallel and comes in all kinds of exotic or domestic hardwoods. 3"x24" size. Very affordable and no work. Just cut out with the hole saw and glue up.
My rings have become the easiest part of pipe making since I learned all these shortcuts. If you like rings, give these ideas a shot. I have no metal lathe, and my need for one is rapidly disappearing.
Wallace