
sanded thru the bit...

Have since found a thread that mentioned using a thin strip of tape to show where the draft hole is from the side of the stem.
Bob
Midland, MI
Thank you for the links. Very good stuff there.DocAitch wrote:I did exactly the same thing on my first hand cut. LL uses tape or a 1/16 th plastic rod inserted in the airway.
I now insert a 1/16" steel rod when I check the side.
Kurt Huhn did a photo essay in the stickies above, check it out.http://www.pipemakersforum.com/photo_es ... cut_stems/
Also check out a thread posted by George Dibos (Latakia Lover) viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8600 on shaping and finishing the button area.
It looks like you were going to run into a problem with your button. There a couple of other videos on shaping stems on Youtube by J Alan. There is also a nice photo of a stem in progress by Scottie22 on a recent post in this section.
DocAitch
Thanks Wayne. How much shorter? Struggling a bit with proportions.wdteipen wrote:It was too long anyway. Handcut stems takes some practice. Keep at it.
I think that it will work better if you slot it first. The slot will help you to maintain your orientation for the rest of the shaping and there is less likelihood of cracking the button while working on this area.timberwolfer21 wrote:Thank you for the links. Very good stuff there.DocAitch wrote:I did exactly the same thing on my first hand cut. LL uses tape or a 1/16 th plastic rod inserted in the airway.
I now insert a 1/16" steel rod when I check the side.
Kurt Huhn did a photo essay in the stickies above, check it out.http://www.pipemakersforum.com/photo_es ... cut_stems/
Also check out a thread posted by George Dibos (Latakia Lover) viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8600 on shaping and finishing the button area.
It looks like you were going to run into a problem with your button. There a couple of other videos on shaping stems on Youtube by J Alan. There is also a nice photo of a stem in progress by Scottie22 on a recent post in this section.
DocAitch
I left the button long intentionally to trim back to 3.5mm when it was time to slot it.
Thank you DocAitch! Will do. That makes a lot of sense.DocAitch wrote:I think that it will work better if you slot it first. The slot will help you to maintain your orientation for the rest of the shaping and there is less likelihood of cracking the button while working on this area.timberwolfer21 wrote:Thank you for the links. Very good stuff there.DocAitch wrote:I did exactly the same thing on my first hand cut. LL uses tape or a 1/16 th plastic rod inserted in the airway.
I now insert a 1/16" steel rod when I check the side.
Kurt Huhn did a photo essay in the stickies above, check it out.http://www.pipemakersforum.com/photo_es ... cut_stems/
Also check out a thread posted by George Dibos (Latakia Lover) viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8600 on shaping and finishing the button area.
It looks like you were going to run into a problem with your button. There a couple of other videos on shaping stems on Youtube by J Alan. There is also a nice photo of a stem in progress by Scottie22 on a recent post in this section.
DocAitch
I left the button long intentionally to trim back to 3.5mm when it was time to slot it.
DocAitch
Thank you. It's a learning experience and I'm just getting started. Nothing made me more nauseous than hoping that line was a sandpaper scratch and not the draft hole emerging to the light of day.sandahlpipe wrote:Yeah. Cut the slot first, then use the slot to orient your tape on the sides.
I would say about twice the depth of the roughed button in the photo.timberwolfer21 wrote:Thanks Wayne. How much shorter? Struggling a bit with proportions.wdteipen wrote:It was too long anyway. Handcut stems takes some practice. Keep at it.