Another Attempt at a Billiard

[DocAitch]

I am finishing 10 pipes and among them is this obligatory Billiard
Length 6.25"
Bowl height 2.05"
Bowl depth 1.90"
Bowl diameter 0.73"


Yes, the shank is also longer than the back of the bowl height. I decided that I would rather leave it on the pipe than have it join the dust in the collector



the shank also pinches in at mid shaft

This a Delrin tenon and I had a little difficulty with the glue joint. The shank is a bit egged because this is all done freehand.

DocAitch

[Ocelot55]

Wow, what an improvement you've been showing lately, Doc. Good job!

Other than what you pointed out, I'd say you can thin the stem down a bit. Right now you can see the convex lines. They should be either dead straight or slightly concave toward the bite zone.

[sandahlpipe]

I like it. Aside from what has been mentioned, I would have shortened the stem about a quarter inch to compensate for the extra length in the shank. Otherwise, it's looking really nice.

[DocAitch]

Thank you, gentlemen.
This was the second stem I put on this pipe. I had dropped my calipers and they must have hit just right, because I didn't catch that it was 0.025" off until after I had cut the bite area down to 0.14" before sanding. I ruined the integral tenon on this one and had to replace it with Delrin, and by that time, I just wanted to get it done.
DocAitch

[scotties22]

I really like the long shank, Doc. But then, I'm partial to pipes with long shanks

[Sasquatch]

I've put a yellow arrow on a light-line that exhibits a slight curve. It should be straight. Every line, every angle on that stem, should be straight. Indicated this in blue. Every reflection on the shank and stem should be a straight line (differing angles from shank to stem of course). File with a broad flat file until you have flatness.

[LatakiaLover]

What Sas just said. ^^^^

Tricky to do until you learn to file SIDEWAYS to obtain straight lines, though. (Since it's counter-intuitive most carvers don't even try it at first.)

Also, these are easier to use and more forgiving than a file because of their super-light weight and the edges don't/can't dig:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... ail+boards

PS -- Damn fine work overall, Doc. You came, you saw, and you are conquering. It's a joy to watch.

[DocAitch]

Also, these are easier to use and more forgiving than a file because of their super-light weight and the edges don't/can't dig:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... ail+boards.

Thanks George, I do use those when I am in the last stages of shaping the button, haven't tried them on the long straights of shank and stem. Still working on techniques.
DocAitch

[wdteipen]

Yep, pretty nice pipe. I agree with critique already given as if it matters. The only other thing I'll add is that the curve in the cheeks where the shank meets the bowl is a touch too defined and you loose the shape of the bowl slightly. It appears to only be on one side from the pics. It creates a straight line when it should follow the curve and the transition should be defined but more gradual so it doesn't look like a cylinder crammed into a sphere.

[calsbeek]

PS -- Damn fine work overall, Doc. You came, you saw, and you are conquering. It's a joy to watch.

Missed a perfect opportunity here for "You came, you saw, you lacquered"