But right now I don't have my choice, will have to purchase those bits later.
So my question is, are standard straight steel drill bits a no-no? If so, why exactly?
It is appreciated.

andrew wrote:Burs come in all sorts of shapes. Unless you buy a nice carbide one you will dull it. They are very slow cutting by reputation. I don't have one myself. Spade bits were easier and cheaper. Just shape them on a bench gringer from harbor freight.
andrew wrote:Burs come in all sorts of shapes. Unless you buy a nice carbide one you will dull it. They are very slow cutting by reputation. I don't have one myself. Spade bits were easier and cheaper. Just shape them on a bench gringer from harbor freight.
that was how I was thinking about it.you have a pretty good ability to control where your hole is if you drill your mortise first - you can see exactly what you are doing
Do I understand you right, that the mortise (and likewise, the draft hole of the stem) lining up parallel to the draft hole is bad? Is this because moisture will get up the stem easier while smoking?the mortise will tend to follow the airway hole, and that's bad
Here's the key.Sasquatch wrote:It's just faster and easier to do the mortise first, tap a little pilot hole dead center, and then do whatever else needs to be done.
Mee too.caskwith wrote:Airway first for me, I find i can't get a nice start otherwise on bent pipes.
There are a few methods laid out here. I think it important to choose which one works best for you.wmolaw wrote:Now I am totally confused. Not an unusual circumstance for me, however.
I use a carbide stub drill, no chance of wander with that! haha.taharris wrote:Mee too.caskwith wrote:Airway first for me, I find i can't get a nice start otherwise on bent pipes.
I get around the mortise wander issue be leaving about a half inch of scrap on the end of the shank that I trim off after the mortise is drilled, leaving a nice straight mortise.
Todd