Biliiard.. is it?

[Peecis]

Hello.
So I made my first attempt on making a billiard. Did I get it?
Dimensions:
Lenght: 148mm/5.8" (90mm stummel + 58mm stem (3.5"+2.3")
Width: 42mm, rim 34mm (1.65"/1.34")
Height: 55mm (2.16'')
Shank: 45mm long, 17mm thick (1.8''/0.67'')
Chamber: Diameter 19.5mm, depth 45mm (0.77''/1.8'')
Stem: Width 17mm (0.67''), bit thickness 4mm (0.16''), slit 1,7mm x 10mm (0.067''x 0.4''), button thickness 7mm (0.275'')
Airway: 4mm (0.157'')
P.S the bit looks thicker in the middle but its not. It must be camera distortion or optical illusion.

[UnderShade]

Looks really nice. The bowl looks canted forward a little too much. I personally don't like the slope from bite zone to button. A small slope looks ok, but I prefer a crisper transition. The whole pipe could do with a lot more sanding/polishing. All in all, you're on your way to making some really nice pipes.

[DocAitch]

I think this shape is fine and well done. It has nice symmetry and the shank/bowl transition is nice and crisp.
The forward cant of the bowl is more than the classic 3-5 degrees, but I think it is well within an acceptable esthetic range (especially if your taste runs to the Danish school).
I would estimate the cant to be around 8 degrees.
As for finish, since this appears to be neither briar nor olive, I won’t comment, except to note that horizontal mark above the transition of the bowl/shank- that could be a part of the wood structure or a tool mark.
The stem could be longer-generally the whole length of the stummel or from the mid point of the chamber to the end of the shank, unless you were going for the Devil Anse look (which might account for the increased cant)
The stem polish could certainly be improved.
Anyway, excellent job on your first billiard.
Also, the front to rear width of the button is a bit longer than necessary, but that will not affect the mouth/teeth feel.
DocAitch

[Peecis]

UnderShade, DocAitch thank you both for your replies!
The cant forward was a bit experimental, I wanted to see if it prevents smoke from getting in my eye. I guess it does that but I dont like it much because I cant see in the bowl when lighting tabacco.
As for the sanding I went up to p600 sandpaper, used a wet towel to raise the grain, then sanded again (p320 -> p400 ->p500->p600), did that 2 times. The line and light pathces didnt dissapear, I guess those are just a grain structure of this african mahagony block. (Im still waiting for my first briar blocks, they are a week late already.)
I definetly need to invest in some new buffing wheels and pastes. The finish is just linseed oil buffed on a cloth wheel.
I left the radius between button and the bit larger to make it more easy to sand and buff. The overall feel of the mouthpiece is a bit awkward between my teeth I think its a little too flat. Next time I'll try to make it more oval in cross section. Also the 4mm airway feels a bit big. What is the standard diameter? Or does it varies depending on pipe size or is it just makers preferance?
However, Im very thankful to all of you who post here or have posted here in the past. This forum is an amazing wealth of information. My skills and understanding have skyrocketed since I registered.

[DocAitch]

I like a radius at the button for the same reason that you do -Its easier to polish and maintain.
I have no problem with that.
DocAitch

[wdteipen]

You definitely have a natural eye for shape and symmetry. There are things that can be improved but dang you're way ahead of many that have been making pipes for a good while. Instead of picking specific things to improve, I think a more useful exercise is for you to find a professional example of a saddle stemmed billiard that you think is a great standard representation and compare your pipe to it and find the details that you would do different on your pipe. I do this regularly when making standard shapes. It really trains your eye to see the details of what makes a great pipe in any given shape and what to shoot for.