Table repair HELP!

[GbpBulgaria]

Hello all
I want to ask you for some help if anyone of have some experience with such repairs.
The problem is as follows.
I have three dogs. Smaller one is a real disaster as she is one-year-old retriever.
We have purchased a new table few months ago made of teak wood, and I and my wife like it very much. Well, last evening we found that the small stupid dog bite one of the edges of the table. The teak wood is not so hard.
I do not have any other option except:
To repair the table
OR
To purchase new one, this is not acceptable.
Therefore, I’ve decided to ask if someone have some experience with such fine repairs.
My plan is to cut the edge off, and this is the problem-any idea how I can do this? Example Dremel with small disk or small saw by hand?!
After that to shape same squire block out of teak material and to glue it at place. Sanding and polishing (this is the easiest part).
Please look at images bellow:






This is the rough plan:


Please let me know what you think! Any ideas will be very welcome!
Thank you!

Regards
George

[tritrek]

That could work...

[GbpBulgaria]

That could work...

yes ithink so, but how to cut it - this is the main problem.
Any idea?

George

[Dane C]

That could work...

yes ithink so, but how to cut it - this is the main problem.
Any idea?

George

May be better to do a straight cut, at an angle that takes off all the the damage in one pass. You would need a very thin kerf saw that cuts very straight. Then you would have a larger surface area to glue, maybe even rig a small biscuit joint. The tricky part will be matching the finish.

Also, give the dog more things to do, they chew out of boredom.

[Frank]

As Dane C suggests, make one single straight cut at an angle, rather than cutting out a square. I would suggest cutting it by hand with a mitre saw. Clamp a scrap piece of wood underneath where you intend to cut to avoid tear out. If you feel the need you can reinforce the join with a biscuit, rather than a headless nail.

Get one of these rawhide "bones" for the mutt to chew on.

[ToddJohnson]

I don't know what tools you have access to, but this is the way I was taught when I learned cabinetry. This would be one of the several quote, unquote, "right ways" to do it, but there are a lot of ways to get it done.

Best of luck,

Todd

[tritrek]

You will have to (well... you should) sand the whole tabletop and re-stain and polish either way... IMHO it's faster than to play with a matching colour..

[GbpBulgaria]

Thank you very much for the help!
I am thinking over the option to cut at an angle but this means that the grain will be cut off across and I will not be able to restore it. Therefore, I rejected this method.
To Dane C and Frank
Unfortunately, I cannot use miter saw as far as I cannot move it. I must use some kind of circular sawing device. The biscuit is new for me – I will try to find something similar on local market in Bulgaria. Could you please explain a little the role of the biscuit? I presume that it should take off the possible clearance between the parts reinforcing the construction. I am wrong – here it is http://www.istockphoto.com/file_thumbvi ... _joint.jpg Correct?
My stupid little dog has more toys than I have; actually the biggest rawhide "bone" withstand about 1 hour in her mouth.

To Todd
Thank you very much! Now I have a very professional plan.
I am not sure that I will find all necessary tools I need for this but maybe will be able to change some of them.
This is the router you have in mind http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Wood_ ... _03_12.jpg Am I right?
And this is the straightedge clamp:
http://samplerewards.com/images/Company ... 1Small.jpg Right?
I think I can use something straight clamped to the table.
Dado cutter is a groove cutter I thought but with spacer, I am not sure. Could you please send me a picture of the exact tool you have in mind? Thank you!

Regards
George

[kbadkar]

The biscuit aligns the parts on the same plane and reinforces the joint, like a dowel, only flat. The photograph is correct, but it's not the best camera angle.

The router picture is also correct. But you'll need a different cutting bit. A "flushing" bit with a top bearing, like this: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... okietest=1, would probably be your best bet. The top bearing will run along the straightedge clamp. The straightedge clamp picture is fine, but unnecessary. Any straightedge material and regular "C" clamps or other style clamps is good enough. I just realized that using the bit above, the router base will have to sit on the straight edge material, so perhaps a flat pine or melamine board or something similar would be best and you could get a clamp far enough away from the router base. Another option would be to use a regular plunge/flushing bit (without bearings) and use the router base as your guide edge. Some routers have a router edge guide attachment that you could use. I'll see if I can find a link to illustrate.. router edge guides

A Dado blade is just two or more table saw blades with spacers between to cut a groove at your desired width, in one pass. If no dado blade is available then run multiple passes on a regular blade. Run test pieces first to make sure your first tablesaw guide setting is correct. The first setting will determine the outer limits of your groove cut. Run through once then flip the wood from front to back and run through again without moving your guide. This guarantees the groove is centered on your block

[Vermont Freehand]

my $0.02.......

when in doubt, TURN THE PROBLEM INTO A FEATURE !!!

maybe just route an ogee around the edge of the whole table, or some profile which will cut away enough of the edge to get rid of the bite mark (may require rounding corners also)

that way you could have a contrast in the new profile compared to the original color of the top, and get rid of the bite marks

[jim in Oregon]

Georgein Bulgaria,
I'm with Vermont Freehad..Improvise and 'use' the damaged area to create a new top contour.

Even IF a perfect 'mechanical piece were to be glued and fitted, it will always look 'repaired' on that cornor.Wood Grain will not match and despite the most meticuloutly thin glue lines and joinery & even staining, there will be the joint.Short of painting the top black.. the cornor will look different from the rest.

So perhaps either do such a 'block' or trianglular piece type replacement-inlay on all four cornors in a contrasting wood, ( abit of work but do able even with basic hand tools) OR cut, sand and shape-smooth all cornors AS IF the table were made that way originally.

I cannot tell from the pictures IF this last approach might be problematical with the let attachment continuity below..or not..

For the chewing dog:
Mix a water based solution of capsaicin( like red pepper) and coat exposed cornors with this.
Give him a light taste of it so he will remember the smell and taste and avoid anything like it going into his mouth.
Pepponcini juice works also..Hood luck and take your time woodworking..Jim