Working with shellac flakes
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Well it's been a while since I sprayed two pipes with shellac. I let them sit a few days, then smoked the smooth one first. It looks great, and after five or so smokes looks good. I smoke the rusticated one about twice a week, several times a day. It smokes awsome and has kept it's shine. I did not wax either pipe after shellacing. I'm still going to try the shellac flakes though.
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When I get some flakes I'll let you know. I've been airbrushing since I was 13. The same thought crossed my mind when I read the 1st post. With the airbrushes I have, I can control the amount of spray from a hair line to 1 1/4". I have a few Nordings, and they both look shellaced and get hot after about 15 minutes. The one I made and sprayed shellac on smokes cool for about 30 minutes, but i asume it is due to being smoked not the shellac.
I don't have an airbrush or the experience, but I've seen excellent airbrush work, so I figured someone with the expertise should be able to get a thin, even coat on a pipe. I'll be watching for your feedback.Spence Pipes wrote:When I get some flakes I'll let you know. I've been airbrushing since I was 13. The same thought crossed my mind when I read the 1st post. With the airbrushes I have, I can control the amount of spray from a hair line to 1 1/4". I have a few Nordings, and they both look shellaced and get hot after about 15 minutes. The one I made and sprayed shellac on smokes cool for about 30 minutes, but i asume it is due to being smoked not the shellac.
I think the pipes heating up have more to do with the briar and construction, rather than the shellac.
Regards,
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
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I thought the same thing about the pipe heating up due to the briar, not the shellac. I'm getting some flakes next week, so hopefully I'l be able to try airbrushing a pipe or two soon. I finally found a process that gives me the desired contrast I like last night, I sprayed the bowl with shellac and it was awsome, till I cracked the whole underside of the shank to the bowl.
I've tried it. I had several airbrushes left over from my painting days and tried airbrushing both shellac and stains. FWIW, the shellac proved to be an unholy mess in the airbrush (sticky and hard to clean) and the process was hugely wasteful of the shellac, with lots just going into the air. I didn't get much better results with stain. It's so thin it's hard to wrestle with for spraying, and airbrush application caused the stain to go on so faintly that it tended to rest and dry instantly on the surface, rather than penetrating as happens with wet brush application. I produced some beautiful airbrushed, shaded & blended color effects, but you could rub the stain off with vigorous finger rubbing. Any sort of compounding would take the stain right back off completely. In the end, I gave both up as a bad job, but this is not to say "Don't try", just be advised that you may be in for a fair degree of hassle for not so much payback.
Happy Smoking,
Trever Talbert
www.talbertpipes.com
My Pipe Blog:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/pipeblog/
My Lizards & Pipes Web Comic:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/lizards/
Trever Talbert
www.talbertpipes.com
My Pipe Blog:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/pipeblog/
My Lizards & Pipes Web Comic:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/lizards/
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Thanks Trevor. I'll take your word on it. I may play around with it later. I'm getting flakes this week. I know a lot of carvers hate shellac, but so far I like the finish it gives a pipe. I have a friend who is a wood worker, we are going to get together and and play with differant compounds to see if I can find something I can use besides wax.
If you opt to pursue applying stain with an airbrush, see if you can't find a thickening agent for the stain. That was the biggest problem - the alcohol-based stain was too thin even for a fine artist's airbrush on low pressures. It just wanted to go all to mist and I'd run through the Iwata's reservoir in seconds. I think it might work OK if the stain could be thickened, perhaps with water content, to make it flow better AND keep it liquid on the pipe surface for longer, allowing it to actually penetrate a bit. Airbrushed stain effects have been a holy grail for me for some time.Spence Pipes wrote:Thanks Trevor. I'll take your word on it. I may play around with it later. I'm getting flakes this week. I know a lot of carvers hate shellac, but so far I like the finish it gives a pipe. I have a friend who is a wood worker, we are going to get together and and play with differant compounds to see if I can find something I can use besides wax.
Happy Smoking,
Trever Talbert
www.talbertpipes.com
My Pipe Blog:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/pipeblog/
My Lizards & Pipes Web Comic:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/lizards/
Trever Talbert
www.talbertpipes.com
My Pipe Blog:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/pipeblog/
My Lizards & Pipes Web Comic:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/lizards/
For what it's worth, last weekend I was watching a leatherworker demonstrate his craft. He uses the Fiebings alcohol dyes, but adds one teaspoon of olive oil to the 4oz bottle of stain to thicken it and help with even application. He said that's the only difference between the oil dyes and the regular ones, and the oil also keeps the leather from stiffening after dyeing. Not that I've encountered stiffening of briar after staining, but the slower dry time may be a good thing.
Rather than olive oil, you might want to try some butcher block oil as it's food-safe and won't go rancid. Don't know that going rancid is a concern on a belt, but could be on a pipe.Alan L wrote:For what it's worth, last weekend I was watching a leatherworker demonstrate his craft. He uses the Fiebings alcohol dyes, but adds one teaspoon of olive oil to the 4oz bottle of stain to thicken it and help with even application. He said that's the only difference between the oil dyes and the regular ones, and the oil also keeps the leather from stiffening after dyeing. Not that I've encountered stiffening of briar after staining, but the slower dry time may be a good thing.
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:39 am
- Location: Nashville, Tn
- Contact:
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:39 am
- Location: Nashville, Tn
- Contact:
Re: Working with shellac flakes
Hello everyone,
i think subjects like that must be always on the top of the board.Very useful info about how you must use the shellac.
i think subjects like that must be always on the top of the board.Very useful info about how you must use the shellac.